OIL LEAK 4.0L RANGER PLEASE HELP

[06DangerRanger]

Hey all recently I've noticed a ticking when starting my motor when it is cold until it warms up. I've read up online and on a lot of forums it said timing chain tensioners as the seals inside begin to leak and to change them before it is too late. I decided to finally change them today and it wasn't that hard I ended up breaking the thermostat housing so I just changed it entirely along with a new thermostat. Threw on a new serpentine belt as mine was wore and started it up. Ran like a charm and no tick for 5 minutes. Then it ticked when it was warm I began to smell oil so I shut the engine off and it made a terrible rattle when shutting off. Then I kept smelling oil and decided to take a look underneath and just a small puddle was on the floor but when looking up this is what I saw. Could it be the rear main seal? Or by removing the rear tensioner did I mess up a guide or something? I feel like my main seal wouldn't just leak randomly when it wasn't before I changed those parts. My driver side valve cover gasket is leaking a bit but I can't see it leaving all this oil. It continues to drip when it's off and I parked it due to fear of ruining the motor which idek maybe its too late it has 255 000kms on it and I'm not hard on this vehicle and kept up with maintenance. Lately it's been letting me down quite a bit and if the motors done I might have to let it go which I don't want to do. Any suggestions on what is could be or what I messed up? (Yes I primed the Tensioners). Thanks

 

[DILLARD000]

Assuming this is a V6~4.0L~SOHC ? Looks like new RightRear OilPressurized TimingTensioners may be leaking oil;
common problem if CrushWasher\Gasket\Seal is not new or is OffCenter as Tensioner is tightened.
Fix is to remove Tensioner again, install a fresh new washer, make sure its centered as Tensioner is made snug, then Torq@49LbFt.
Did you make sure old CrushWasher\Gasket\Seal came off & that you replaced it with a new one?
What brand are new OilPressurized TimingTensioners; hopefully MotorCraft, not a cheap failure prone knockoff?
When changing Tensioners, I've gotten habit of spraying a little CarbThrottleCleaner in each OilFeedPassage,
then an Oil+Filter change right after confirming Tensioners+Chains are quiet running cold+warm with no oil leak.
Best to get all fluid leaks fixed ASAP; they make engine a mess to maintain & any new leak difficult to notice.
Also, if PCVValve is more than a couple of years old (on rear end of left ValveCover),
a plugged\stuck one can cause higher CrankCase pressure & result in oil leaks.
Hopefully this helps. Click here for more info on these OilPressurized TimingTensioners.

 

[06DangerRanger]

I just put In a set of cloyes tensioners atm from rockauto I recently purchased a house and money was a little tight so I went that route to try and save the engine before anything bad happened then go to Motorcraft this summer. Everything was tightened to spec but I suspect maybe the crush washer on the passenger side one might still be on as I do not remember checking or seeing one on the old one. Would that cause oil to leak from one side all the way to the other though ? I also noticed when I did the shorter one *right side* I just threaded it in no problem with no resistance whatsoever like the top front one.

 

[Curious Hound]

Would that cause oil to leak from one side all the way to the other though

Oil runs wherever it wants to. Usually downhill, but not always. Usually along an edge or seam, but not always. It will wick up, down and sideways, especially where there are dirt deposits. Fix what you suspect is leaking. Then clean everything real good, so that if it leaks again, you may be able to track it to the source.

 

[06DangerRanger]

I'll have to check it out truck was parked overnight and not really a huge oil puddle just some drops. I checked the passenger side tensioner and there was oil on the outside of it but I mean I soaked them in oil when priming them so that could be it gonna pull it out and see if I can get a look inside as I think there may be an issue with the rear timing chain probably a guide. I'm going to clean all around and start it up while I lay underneath to see where the oil is coming from. From the amount of oil it does look like a main seal leak but the starter was clean and I can't see it letting go randomly especially after I changed 2 parts.

 

[DILLARD000]

Yes having 2 washers may cause a leak.
Did install Cloyes on a friends 2004 Explorer 4.0L:
~ quality & spring feel seemed good,
~ gray metal (stainless?) instead of black MotorCraft,
~ Cloyes CrushWasher\Gasket\Seal was notably thicker & fit better than MotorCraft,
~ overall length of Cloyes Tensioners were ~1mm shorter than MotorCraft, so bit of concern.
That was several months ago & he has had no issue with them so far.
Left Tensioner does seem to require more pressure getting threads to start into the head,
but you may have a broken guide in the right rear; only sure way to tell is to remove right valve cover & inspect.
Had a scar on my left front Head, so last time changing that Tensioner, had a big oil leak after 1st try;
on 2nd try, used Teflon tape to spiral wrap the Washer & that sealed it up nicely.

 

[06DangerRanger]

What do you mean by scar like a crack or or imperfection where it seats? The front one doesn't seem to have oil around it or be leaking. It did take alot of pressure to install it so I'm confident the guide and chain in the front are good which sucks cause the rear involves pulling the motor. I suspect rear is leaking possibly I didn't seat the crush washer right or I over torqued it (by hand). I think maybe the guide because the rear tensioner screwed in like a regular bolt even when primed almost as if it wasn't pushing against anything. Just wondering why a guide would let go like that as I thought the guide/tensioner issue was only from 01 to 04. I just heard a cold start rattle and decided to change them but the old ones still seemed stiff and I could move them much when I submerged them in oil. It's my daily driver so I'm quite worried and if it's something in the motor we'll I might have to finally let it go as I have almost 10k in a ranger that I paid 5k for and the body's pretty rusted and mechanically everything was fine til now lol. Will try the Teflon trick you mentioned.

 

[DILLARD000]

See pic below of LeftFront; the scar is in the head were the Washer seats.
Also see pic below of RightRear; a little of the plastic Guide is visible thru hole.

 

[DILLARD000]

You do need a TorqWrench; old fashioned BeamStyle works for me on these Tensioners;
so not to either under tighten (leaks) or overtighten (stripped head).

 

[DILLARD000]

Don't give up too easily;
take a deep breath, take your time & make logical choices as you proceed.

 

[06DangerRanger]

Yeah I'm going to take it to a shop tomorrow I did everything you said put teflon and cleaned up the surface tightened it good and it is not leaking anymore but the rattle persists. Thanks man