Oil gauge

[masanders]

When I start my truck, mainly in this freezing weather, the oil pressure gauge doesn't move. It'll stay down until the engine warms up and then once I blip the throttle it reads somewhere in the middle.

Bad sensor? Bad sending unit? Cold weather?

Anyone got an idea?

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[RangerFabWorks]

Sounds like a leaking sender to me. I’d put a mechanical gauge on it to verify what’s actually going on. Easy enough to install

 

[masanders]

Today is 20° higher than the last week or so. The oil pressure gauge worked right away. Maybe it was just the cold weather? Last oil change, they put 5w20 conventional in. Could that be part of the issue? Should it be full synthetic/high mileage?

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[adsm08]

I would say the sender doesn't like the cold.

5W20 is the correct weight for the oil, conventional, blend, for full synthetic isn't going to affect the pressure readings. Conventional won't kill the engine, by any means, but all your service intervals were spec'd with a blend in mind, so I would change at 3000 rather than 5000, but beyond that, won't hurt or change a thing.

High mileage oils are usually synthetic blends, but some brands have full synthetic high mile oils too. The big thing with those are that there are extra additives that condition the rubber seals to help prevent leaks.

 

[masanders]

I would say the sender doesn't like the cold.

5W20 is the correct weight for the oil, conventional, blend, for full synthetic isn't going to affect the pressure readings. Conventional won't kill the engine, by any means, but all your service intervals were spec'd with a blend in mind, so I would change at 3000 rather than 5000, but beyond that, won't hurt or change a thing.

High mileage oils are usually synthetic blends, but some brands have full synthetic high mile oils too. The big thing with those are that there are extra additives that condition the rubber seals to help prevent leaks.

Is there anything I can do to help the sender?

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[tomw]

The sending unit is sealed, and cannot readily be disassembled. It is more of an off-on switch in most trucks, unless it is the 'domed' sender with a potentiometer & diaphragm inside. The switch closed at 5-8-10 psi, ballpark, and the juice goes through a resistor to plop the gauge into the middle of its sweep. Lose pressure, and the switch opens, letting the needle go to 'bottom' pressure. They are relatively cheap.
If you have a 2.3/2.5, the switch is mounted on the driver side of the head, close to the back end. There should be one push-on connector.
tom

 

[adsm08]

Is there anything I can do to help the sender?

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You can replace it. They are like $12.