Oil Gauge Flicker / Need New Rad

[Xope_Poquar]

Alright I own a 2002 Ranger and my main problem right now is my radiator has a leak. I guess because it uses plastic tanks it can't be soldered. Does anyone recommend the sealant you can buy? I hear it often clogs them up.

This is annoying because I just had the radiator replaced 3 years ago and it cost me $500 for parts and labor. Now I look online and I see my radiator (2173?) going for just over $100.

Is it an easyish DIY job to replace the radiator? I have a friend who has every type and size tool for working on cars. The only thing I'd be worried about is proprietary tools needed. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty and I'm in my 3rd year of a B.S. in Electrical Engineering and 2nd year of a B.A. in Mathematics so I've done quite a bit of fiddling around with complicated things I don't know much about. I've just never played around with my truck much but right now I've got the summer off and money is tight so I'd like to learn a little.


The other problem is my oil gauge sometimes flickers when I'm coming to a stop. Not every time, just maybe once or twice a week. Any insight there would be nice.


On an ending note; a forum dedicated to Ford Rangers!? I love the Internet! Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[ati190]

The Radiator is an easy, EASY, replacement job. 2 Bolts hold it in. 2 bolts hold the shroud to radiator if i remember correctly. The radiator then slides out of place. Removal of both hoses is a must also.

Oil guage flickering = mostly like need a new sender (common problem). Another easy fix. It's on the backside of the passenger head. One wire coming from the top of it. 10$ part. Go motorcraft for sure on it.


ati190

 

[diverd]

I thought the oil gauge flickering in my 99 3.0l flex was a sender too until i installed a mechincal gauge and found out the cold I have great pressure and hot I have about 10 psi and dropping to 0 when I come to idle.. Put a gauge in and check for sure you might save yourself alot of money...

 

[ati190]

The key is to use a mechanical guage, not a electrical based guage.. The stock guage is useless anyway. At 8psi -/+ a psi or two, the guage reads normal. It's nothing more than a switch. At 10psi, it's not enough to keep the engine running, at any rpm above idle. So I'm guessing you needed a motor diverd? You would have heard some kind of engine noise before it's death at 0 psi.

 

[Xope_Poquar]

Oh wow this is great news. Thank you very much!

Is there a radiator that fits that doesn't have plastic edge tanks?

As far as the oil gauge goes I've never had funny noises from my engine or abnormal behavior that I know of; just a flicker sometimes when I go from high rpm's to idle.


Another problem I forgot about:
One of the back lights in the dash went out. Not a big problem but is it easy to get in there are replace the light? Heck if I can get back there I might just do a mod with multiple colored LEDs and put a switch somewhere.

 

[davidxlt]

yea my oil gauge does the same 99 3.0l flex ati190 is right

 

[ati190]

AFAIK, the radiators all have the plastic edge on the side. The lights in your dash are fairly simple. 1. Remove radio bezel. 2. Remove lower dash panel, and the metal bracket behind it. 3. Remove the screws holding the dash bezel in place (piece with the plastic lens). You may have to wiggle it around over the steering column. If automatic, you probably are going to need to put it in 1st. 3. Once dash bezel is removed, remove the four screws holding the cluster in. There are two connections on the back. Seperate the wiring harnesses from both. and the cluster is out. There are 6 bulbs i believe.. I recently did mine. 6 bigger bulbs anyway. Plus the little check engine ones, etc. There's a nice write-up around on the forums.

ati190