• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Oil furnace question


Jim Oaks

Just some guy with a website
Administrator
Founder / Site Owner
Supporting Vendor
Article Contributor
TRS Banner 2010-2011
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 2, 2000
Messages
15,086
Age
57
City
Nocona
State - Country
TX - USA
Other
2005 Jaguar XJ8
Vehicle Year
2021
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
2.3 EcoBoost
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
3.5-inches
Tire Size
295/70/17
This is my first winter with an oil furnace.

The furnace is new, it was put in right before we bought the house.

A couple weeks ago I notice the air coming out of the register wasn't warm. I check and found I ran out of oil. The float gauge on the tank doesn't work, so every so often I dip it. I got oil put in, bled out the line and started it back up.

Anyways, I dipped it a couple of days ago and still had plenty of oil. A few minutes ago I notice the air coming from the register wasn't warm. I went down and saw the light on the furnace was blinking. I hit the reset switch, bled it, and started it up again. It's putting out warm air.

My concern is to why it had to be reset. The system is good, but I have a pan under the oil filter on the tank because it drips when the furnace is running. I guess I need to change it, but just haven't yet.

Could the leak at the oil filter be the cause of the burner having to be reset??
 
your leek could be causing a loss in pressure I'd change filters soon and reset the furnace and try that,,
 
OK, thanks. Is there just (1) type of universal filter for these systems?
 
Right up my alley. The reset button is tripping probably because of a no fire condition. What brand is the burner assy. You definately need to fix any leaks. If you have two lines one is the suction to the burner pump with the inline filter. If you have the spin on filter like a ranger filter yes they are all standard just make sure you oil the big gasket when you install it for ease of changing it later and replace the oring that comes with it on the threaded part. If your tank and lines are old blast some air dack into the tank to clear any sludge that may have built up. If you notice alot of crap fall out the filter when you drain it you may need to change the strainer in the end cap on the burner pump. If you have a single line system any air in the supply will cause it to trip the primary control. The cad cell senses the flame and if there is no fire it will lock it out so you dont fill the fire box with oil. So change the filter make sure all the flare fittings are real tight and before you fire it off bleed it good you may need to reset it a few times until clean oil with no air bubbles come out and as soon as you close the bleeder it should fire right off and just like bleeding brakes close the bleeder when the pump is not running. I can guide you through changing the nozzle and adjusting the igniters also we have tricks but you need to give it a tune up at least once a year to keep it burning clean change the filter and nozzle and adjust the air.
 
Last edited:
We also recommend you dont use the furnace right after you fill it up especially an old tank. It stirs up the sediments in the bottom of the tank clogging the filter,strainer and nozzle. Kind of like hardening of the arteries especially on a single line system. you can use a CO2 cartridge to blast the lines out but dont use two in a row you will freeze up the line, a good blast from the compressor works just fine start slow then raise the pressure. The next time you run out of oil get a pump and drain the bottom of the tank the dip tube is usually about 4-6 inches from the bottom get as much of the sludge out you can now then you know where you stand for future diagnostic. Eliminate variables wait at least 2 hrs after adding oil to the tank 12 hrs if you can before you start pulling from it.
 
http://www.beckettcorp.com/scripts/filesearch/techinfo/664852.shtml

Pretty good diagram on how to set the electrodes when you change the nozzle we found the 1/16 measurement is critical for their life span we set them almost flush with the plane of the nozzle just past it you dont get the build up of oil that causes them to foul out. Do not touch the strainer on the nozzle with your fingers either it will cause it to plug up.
 
kim,good advice...but i'd be carefull about putting your phone number on a public forum.

one other thing to consider with the furnace-mine was cutting out all the time and i spent hours going through the systems kim brought up...to no avail.(i also have a long background in the hvac industry)and it turned out that a branch blown off a tree had hit the chimney cap,bending it down and blocking the flow out the exhaust.i bent it back up and all was good again.

just one more thing to consider.
 
kim,good advice...but i'd be carefull about putting your phone number on a public forum.

one other thing to consider with the furnace-mine was cutting out all the time and i spent hours going through the systems kim brought up...to no avail.(i also have a long background in the hvac industry)and it turned out that a branch blown off a tree had hit the chimney cap,bending it down and blocking the flow out the exhaust.i bent it back up and all was good again.

just one more thing to consider.

Thanks about the phone number thing I edited the post.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top