Oil for my 84 bronco 2

[Gotta-love-that-tank]

would it be okay to use 5-30 or 10-30 what am i suppose to use?

 

[PanamaExpat]

You are supposed to use the SEARCH feature. Long thread bout this very subject. My opinion.... In my climate any 20-50 oil should be just fine.

 

[adsm08]

I would not use 20-50.

Ford always said 10-30, but my own research indicates that a 5-30 or even a 0-30 would work just as well or better.

 

[PanamaExpat]

Well adsm since you said it I'll do it. Just seems odd that in a brutally hot environment like mine you would use a lighter weight oil.

 

[adsm08]

Have you actually read a good description of oil viscosities? The first number means very little above 125* and the second number means very little below 125*.

Check out bobistheoilguy.com.

 

[wildbill23c]

I had a 1984 Ford Ranger 2.8L V6 always ran 10W-30 in it, never a problem. Same will go for my newly acquired 1984 Ford Bronco 2 2.8L V6. However I won't run any expensive oil through it because like all fords the B2 leaks oil LOL.

 

[Milton]

To go totally overboard on the subject, check out Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas). It's a very long but informative series of articles.

What I take out of it which agrees with ADSM:
- All motor oils are the same viscosity at a normal working temp of around 212 deg.
- All motor oils are too thick at temps under 125 deg to provide lubrication.
- Multi-viscosity oils (i.e. 0W-30) while thinner at cold temps then a single weight oil, are still too thick to provide lubrication when cold. However since they are thinner to start with, they can achieve the proper viscosity and provide lubrication quicker than a single weight oil.
- Dino oil gets it multi-viscosity properties from additives, which degrade with heat, time and usage. So run dino oil too long, after an over heating episode or just let you engine set for 6 months, odds are your 10W-50 oil is now a single weight 50W oil.
- Synthetic oils are multi-viscosity at their molecular level, not by adding additives. However they do have additives for cleaning properties, etc. and yes those properties are lost with time, usage and heat.

Bottom line is as usual, ADSM is spot on. I'm in Texas where 30-60 days >100 deg is not unheard of but that is actually irrelevant because the engine runs at around 212 degrees or more. I run 0W-30 for what it's worth.

 

[PanamaExpat]

Well that was some interesting reading. So much for being an old timer. That means I can use this synthetic I have been looking at that is a 5-30. Comes from Brazil I think but is about a third of the price of Castrol. If that isn't rated high enough I guess it will be good old PriceMart 5-30. We don't have the cold problem as it is usually in the 80s at night. The coldest I have EVER seen it here was 72.

 

[adsm08]

I had a 1984 Ford Ranger 2.8L V6 always ran 10W-30 in it, never a problem. Same will go for my newly acquired 1984 Ford Bronco 2 2.8L V6. However I won't run any expensive oil through it because like all fords the B2 leaks oil LOL.

I run 10W-30 in mine as well, but only because it is the thinnest stuff I can get a diesel spec'ed oil in. When I swap the 4.0 in this summer I am not sure what I am going to do just yet, but 5-30 blend is high on the list of options.

 

[4.0B2]

we use this in EVERYTHING

 

[509lifted]

adsm what i am getting out of ur last comment is u run oil that is ment to be ran in a diesel right? if that is true y do u do that and from what i have heard there are negative results from doing that in a gas motor, not trying to act like i know it all i just really wanna know what the benfits are and if they are good enough i might switch over to it, ps sorry about the slight thread jack didnt feel the need to pm or start a new thread.

 

[4.0B2]

adsm what i am getting out of ur last comment is u run oil that is ment to be ran in a diesel right? if that is true y do u do that and from what i have heard there are negative results from doing that in a gas motor, not trying to act like i know it all i just really wanna know what the benfits are and if they are good enough i might switch over to it, ps sorry about the slight thread jack didnt feel the need to pm or start a new thread.

maybe you meant me? for Rotella oil?

if you look at the codes on the back of the bottle, it's rated for gas engines also. I can tell you of a chevy 350 motor that had 500,000 miles on it with no oil related issues and still ran when we sold it, no smoke, no engine slack or anything.

we've never had any build up issues and the motors are as clean as can be inside. I'll probably never use a different oil. Even my 4wheelers get Rotella

and to answer the questions I missed, I started out using it b/c my father always has.. Plus we get discounts ordering it thru the shop we work at. I don't know if there are technical advantages... I just know I've seen motors will 200,000 miles and look brand new inside compared to motors I've torn down with less miles and Penzoil and it's crudded up.

 

[adsm08]

adsm what i am getting out of ur last comment is u run oil that is ment to be ran in a diesel right? if that is true y do u do that and from what i have heard there are negative results from doing that in a gas motor, not trying to act like i know it all i just really wanna know what the benfits are and if they are good enough i might switch over to it, ps sorry about the slight thread jack didnt feel the need to pm or start a new thread.

You want to know the real difference between gas oil and diesel oil (aside from diesel engines usually using a thicker oil)? The additives.

Diesel fuel burns dirty and diesel engines are filthy. You ever get used diesel oil on your hands, it's awful stuff. That is because it is full of all that dirt. It has more and better detergents to keep diesel-grade dirt off the insides of the engine and more zinc than they are allowed to put in gas oils now. Zinc is good for flat-tappet cams.

I have run it in my 2.9's for a few years now with no ill effects. Every other professional and expert I have talked to said it will not hurt anything. Worst thing it can possibly do is clean deposits off the inside that are keeping bad gaskets sealed up and start leaks.

 

[4.0B2]

Worst thing it can possibly do is clean deposits off the inside that are keeping bad gaskets sealed up and start leaks.

this is WILL do... quickly!

 

[Andy D]

Not that I have bothered to look , but I dint know there was a 10 30 HDEO, I'll have to do some research. I would have no problem using it in the 4.0 should it start burning oil. It seems to like Auto Zone 5 w 30 so far. My BMWs spec 20 W50. I bought a bunch of 20 w 50 Castrol for motor cycles. to keep the valve train quiet