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oil burning


PRanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
113
City
NorCal
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Automatic
To make a long story short. I was heading up a big dirt road up a mountain to go wheelin with a buddy and when I stopped right before we entered the playground I popped my hood just to let my engine breath and I had oil smoke coming from the back of the block. Checked my oil and sure enough it had burnt up about a quart. I did just do an oil change about 100 miles before so I know the level was right before. Now I was running it really hard up the hill the whole way and I know I need to replace my cam syncro/sensor because I have been hearing it squeaking for about 500 miles or so. Could the Camshaft Syncro/Sensor cause any oil to burn from the engine? I don't have any blue smoke from my tailpipe it was only smokin on the engine. Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds more like a leak than burning the oil. Check the lip around the valve covers with your finger or a rag (rag is better)...if you come up with oil check that the VC bolts are tight...if they are you may have a leak from some place else...could be where a sensor plugs into the block...most likely the actual oil sensor...but if you have spots that are hard to get at or see you can pick up one of those mechanic mirrors that telescope...some even have lights...and that helps to see into dark areas...
 
I'm with Mark. Sounds like it is leaking onto the exhaust and not actually burning.

And no, the synchro drive can't, in and of itself, cause the engine to start burning oil.
 
check intake valley bridge too
 
Thanks , That could come in handy when I start chasing oil leaks which look to be coming from some where high on the driver's side of a ohv 4.0. Right now, the clutch job is branching out to the most complete brake job I have ever done. New calipers, rear wheel cylinders, shoes, pads, hardware, hoses all the original hard lines. I usually just fix what is busted on brakes. I jostled an an original line and it popped. Could only get a rear bleeder to open, I sheared the other WC bleeder. . When I started twisting off a caliper bleeder I quit. I removed the bad lines with a pair of dikes and a 6 point wrench I have borrowed my BIL's brake line kit. 3/16 tube. a double flare tool to make up all the hard lines. I'm just a shade tree hack, but I'm better than whoever ran the rear line and part of the RF.
 
Sounds like my brakes...what started out to be a "HUH?" due to no brakes turned into my first major brake job...it was a good learning experience...especially in that it was five years after I installed everything that I had to get them to work properly...the truck sat for five years before I finally got to drive it...
 

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