Off road light wiring issue and Name this electrical pigtail

[Scrambler82]

Good to hear you are getting there.
Don't rush the big jobs, if you f-up the hip again and set yourself back, that will $uck.

Luck,

 

[Tractor Dan]

Well think i have about got it narrowed down. I plan on getting a relay most likely but i got bored today so decided to work on it. I found that the ground for these lights the wire was 16awg. So i went to lowes and bought 12awg tonight to match the power wire size. So gonna redo the ground wires. Run those to the battery negative to test and make sure all the wiring is good and if so i'll get a relay next paycheck and hopefully have it wired for good.

I'm about 95% sure it's the ground being the problem. Mainly because when i put my volt meter in line i'm getting a full 12 volts to each light now. Only thing the lights aren't lighting up even though both bulbs are good. So leaves me to think it has to be that the ground isn't solid which means no lights?

 

[Scrambler82]

Well think i have about got it narrowed down. I plan on getting a relay most likely but i got bored today so decided to work on it. I found that the ground for these lights the wire was 16awg. So i went to lowes and bought 12awg tonight to match the power wire size. So gonna redo the ground wires. Run those to the battery negative to test and make sure all the wiring is good and if so i'll get a relay next paycheck and hopefully have it wired for good.

I'm about 95% sure it's the ground being the problem. Mainly because when i put my volt meter in line i'm getting a full 12 volts to each light now. Only thing the lights aren't lighting up even though both bulbs are good. So leaves me to think it has to be that the ground isn't solid which means no lights?

First, make sure the wire you have is for automotive use, Lowe’s is not the place for automotive wire, if it has the stiff outer coating it really isn’t suitable for the job. I know, I know… 12 gauge is 12 gauge and it will carry current BUT the sheathing will break down if the wire is not rated for oil and grease resistance.

Get your wire at either an auto parts store you can trust or a marine store; the marine store being a little better because the wire is usually tinned for corrosion resistance.

Anyway, yes make sure the gauge is at least the size of the power wire and as you stated run it back to the battery; this will assure the good ground in the future. Solder all connections and use a good quality heat shrink.

I have said it all before man, sorry for the repeat…

Your relay, depending on the wattage of the lights, usually only needs to be 30 amps and a 4 pin type will work; it should have pin numbering as follows:

Relay Pin Out
Pin # - Hook up
30 - Battery
87 - Load (Lights)
85 - Switched power
86 - Ground

A correctly wired relay will provide the shortest wire length between the battery and the device(s) controlled by the relay.

Sometimes you can get a 5 pin relay with pin number 87A, this will work by not using the extra pin BUT pin 87A will be 12V hot when the lights are out so make sure it is covered.

Cost of the relay is minimum, wire should be low cost.

Luck on the rest of the project.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Note the fuse or put a fusable link on the hots comeing off the battery before the relay.

 

[Scrambler82]

Do not use a fusible link, please… definitely fuse the power wire going to pin 30 and the power to the switch.