- Joined
- Nov 24, 2025
- Messages
- 1
- Points
- 1
- City
- Bellingham
- State - Country
- MA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2007
- Drive
- 4WD
- Engine
- 4.0 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hi All
I have a 2007 Ranger, about 300,000 miles. Still in perfect running condition. First I feel I should apologize, I'm not a mechanic in any sense of the word. So I'll probably use all the wrong terms.
OK now that the weather has turned cold I've had the truck not start a few times (twice today). No start, no click, the dash lights all start up including the padlock symbol which I believe is the engine immobilizer light. It appears that if I turn the key to the ACC position for a few seconds it then starts up (but this could be just dumb luck on my part). What I understand from my girlfriend (She restores classic cars and knows all this stuff, but isn't here for a couple months) is that there is a board with a resistor in the starting chain. When the engine is started the potential drop across the resistor is measured and compared to a value stored in the computer. If they match the truck starts, if not, then it doesn't. And apparently over time the resistor wears out. Also I know that resistance is temperature dependent and it may just be drifting out of range with the cold weather.
What workarounds do I have (that I can do in a store parking lot if necessary) to get it to start if this happens again (It's been about 5 times in the last 2 weeks and as I said, twice today, so I expect it will happen again).
Long term, do I look at (1) changing the board, (2) snipping out and replacing the resistor, (3) or is there a better solution to this that I'm not thinking of at this time?
Thank you
Steven
I have a 2007 Ranger, about 300,000 miles. Still in perfect running condition. First I feel I should apologize, I'm not a mechanic in any sense of the word. So I'll probably use all the wrong terms.
OK now that the weather has turned cold I've had the truck not start a few times (twice today). No start, no click, the dash lights all start up including the padlock symbol which I believe is the engine immobilizer light. It appears that if I turn the key to the ACC position for a few seconds it then starts up (but this could be just dumb luck on my part). What I understand from my girlfriend (She restores classic cars and knows all this stuff, but isn't here for a couple months) is that there is a board with a resistor in the starting chain. When the engine is started the potential drop across the resistor is measured and compared to a value stored in the computer. If they match the truck starts, if not, then it doesn't. And apparently over time the resistor wears out. Also I know that resistance is temperature dependent and it may just be drifting out of range with the cold weather.
What workarounds do I have (that I can do in a store parking lot if necessary) to get it to start if this happens again (It's been about 5 times in the last 2 weeks and as I said, twice today, so I expect it will happen again).
Long term, do I look at (1) changing the board, (2) snipping out and replacing the resistor, (3) or is there a better solution to this that I'm not thinking of at this time?
Thank you
Steven
