Now it won't start... 1990 2.9

[beerhunter]

Apologies for coming to you again with problems...

My new speed sensor arrived today, with the missing bit that I need to have a working speedo. So after work I fitted it to the transfer box, and reconnected the speedo to the instrument cluster (along with the 2 big electrical connectors).

I also fitted a new front fog light bulb as one had blown. I mention all this because up til now, the truck has been fine at starting.

I then re-connected the battery, and went to start it. There was a weird electrical sound from around the glove box area - to my uneducated ear, it sounded like a relay going nuts. All the dash lights lit up as normal, but when I turn the key that final bit to crank it, all electrics died.

I disconnected the battery, checked the voltage (11 point something volts), reconnected it. No weird sound this time from the glove box area, but same result - everything lit up OK until that final turn of the key. Then... all dead electrics.

Ignition fuse looks OK. It was by then too dark to dig around behind the dash.

As mentioned, it's been fine at starting til now, and I don't see how any of the things I did tonight would/should kill the ignition, even if I had e.g. mangled the instrument cluster connectors (and it's a pretty tight squeeze to get my hands behind there).

Any thoughts? Could it be coincidence that the starter relay died tonight, and would that cause my symptoms? Would a FUBAR'd ECU make a noise in its dying moments?

Many thanks. Currently pretty gutted as I was hoping to get it tested and on the road this weekend...

P.s. On reflection, the weird noise was maybe more of a buzz than a click, but it was over fairly quickly either way

 

[Yettiyell]

Are you getting 12V to the power wire into your fuse box in the engine compartment?

Once you have turned the key to the "start" position and the power goes out...doesyour dash lights come back when the key is returned to the "on" position?

Are your battery connections clean and tight with good contact? When you replaced your speedo were you in your dash pretty far? I would check connections. Keep us posted.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You should have over 12.4 volts with a decent battery. I suspect a dead battery. The relay noise you heard also makes me think dead battery.

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks both. I'll charge the battery and check the cables.

 

[wildbill23c]

Battery cables hooked up backwards?

 

[RonD]

If electrics "go dark" when you turn key to START that can be "normal"
Most ignition switches cut power to non-needed electrics to give all available power to starter motor.

But if starter motor also doesn't work then dead battery or bad connection at battery's main cables.
Clean battery terminals and cable ends.
1990 may still have Starter relay on inner fender, if so main Positive battery cable runs to a post on that Relay, pull all wires off that post and clean them and the post, thats the main power distribution for the whole vehicle.

Don't forget the Ground(negative) battery cables, its a DC system so both positive and negative are required to pass the same AMPs or no power passes

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks all. Tonight I cleaned as many connections as I could before it got dark, replaced one terminal clamp, and charged the battery.
No change - turning the key to crank means all electrics die, and stay dead for a few minutes (unless I disconnect and reconnect the battery).
The battery is under warranty so I shall exchange it tomorrow, and clean any more earths etc that I missed tonight.
Thanks again.

 

[RonD]

When you said this: "and stay dead for a few minutes (unless I disconnect and reconnect the battery)

Then the battery cables AT THE BATTERY are the problem, for sure
OR............the battery terminals inside the battery are bad

Only two things it could be

There is no "electrical reset" in your year Ranger, or any vehicle really, disconnecting a battery cable and hooking it back up gives it a better connection until next time you try to draw 60amps thru it, then it quits again

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks again for the advice. I scoured the terminals and the clamps, so it must be the battery itself.

 

[beerhunter]

OK, so, the truck hates me or is haunted. It was a combo of crappy battery and dodgy electrical repairs at fault before.

It had been starting like a champ on first turn of the key. However, now it won't crank.

The fuel pump primes. There's 12 volts at the battery. 12 volts go in to the solenoid, but nothing comes out. I put a new solenoid on, still nothing. The 60 amp fuse is good.

Is the ignition switch therefore the likely suspect? If so, can you give me pointers on what/how to check?

Many thanks once again

 

[RonD]

If you have a fender mount RELAY(often incorrectly called a solenoid, lol) then it will have a smaller terminal labelled "S", that's what activates this relay and sends the battery voltage to the starter motor, it's usually a Red/blue stripe wire on the "S" post

That red/blue wire comes from ignition switch but......................it passes thru a Neutral switch, manual trans has that on the clutch pedal, pedal has to be down for starter motor to work
On an automatic(A4LD) the switch is on the transmission just above shift rod, called an NSS, neutral safety switch.

If automatic trans try starting with trans in Neutral instead of Park, could just be out of adjustment

 

[beerhunter]

Hi, thanks for that.
How in h*ll do you get the switch off of the clutch pedal (mine's a manual)? I can't see it, and I have spent half an hour working blind to get it detached to test it.
Could you point me to a nice clear picture?
Thanks

 

[Denisefwd93]

Many people bypass it I think it's pink and blue wires look it up it's on YouTube,

the switch is actually designed for easy on and off I'm left-handed and put the new one on right-handed and put the clip over it at the same time single-handed. I'll look for picture. Hey go protection clutch made a video the Ford switch is about halfway in the video

https://youtu.be/vkH4a6mKTsE

 

[beerhunter]

Hey

So I bypassed the switch by directly joining the 2 wires, and it fired straight up.

I don't feel the need for it, so will simply leave as-is. However, it got me wondering what the other wires going to that switch do?