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Not your average sychro post... I think!


soonerbillz

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
12
City
N/E Oklahoma in the sticks
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Manual
Hello and thanks to the admins for hosting this site. This is my first posting!
My Ranger is a 2004 with the 3.0 of course and it is a Edge 4X4 with the 5 speed.
I bought this truck last year and it had 75K on the clock. Now ir has about 95K.
The truck has run pretty good up till about 2 weeks ago. I say pretty good because it has always had a little uneven idle warm or cold.
Anyways about two weeks ago during a long weekend trip it started bucking hard and missing through acceleration and at lower rpms. Then the CEL came on.
I nursed it home and if I was easy on the gas and was smooth with my shifts I could get it to be somewhat controllable. When I got to higher rpm's it was much smoother with only a occasional hiccup. At the lower speeds and rpm it was noticeably weak on power.
So I scoured the internet and through the other website and this one as well as a bunch of other sources I found out about the cam synchro issues. Though my truck seemed to be at odds with the symptoms described by all the other complaints I read about. (they all seem to be complaining about bucking & missing @ 3-4K rpm's vs. mine @ lower rpm's) I became very nervous about the possibility of the oil pump not getting driven by the synchro and the obvious disaster that would wreak.
I took the truck to O's and had them scan for codes and it showed to be missing on #1 cylinder but they could not tell me anything other than that. so I decided to change out the synchro and cam position sensor along with the plugs and wires. I installed the synchro using the marking method by marking the tang to synchro body position & synchro body to intake manifold position. I then transferred those marks to the new synchro and installed it making sure the marks line up perfectly as they were before. I then installed the new plugs & wires. I will ashamedly say I got confused about the plug/wire numbers on cylinders 4/5! I could not remember which was which. So I looked at a diagram posted on this site and went with that.

So now here are the results.
The truck runs way better than it did before. For the most part there is no bucking or missing at the level previously. The truck, once I get going and get to 2500 rpm's runs much stronger and smoothly. Much more power at cruising speed.
But here's the caveat: There still is a uneven idle. I don't mean it rises or falls @ idle though it may do that slightly, but by "uneven" I mean to say that it is "lightly"rough or "lightly" misses.
When I take off in 1st gear the engine feels like it wants to do the bucking,missing thing but doesn't. It definitely has more power than before at those lower rpm's. And after I am in 2nd or 3rd if I let the rpm's drop below 2200 and then try to accelerate it will miss and buck ever so lightly for a second then strongly pull through the rpm's.
This is driving me nut's! Can anyone her give some ideas as to what to look at? Fuel? Some sensor? Any help is appreciated!
 
Well the CEL came back on this morning and it started bucking a little more again.....
The last scan I had done it showed a code for #1 cylinder missing. I will stop at the parts store today and scan it again.
I'll try the Seafoam but I am thinking this is something more than carbon or a clogged fuel something. How do you actually do that procedure?
I run good gas, the truck doesn't even have 100K on the clock and has been taken care of so I'm not sure there should be that much in the way of crud in the intake or fuel system.
 
So I went to O's after work and had them scan the codes again. Came back with P0301, P0300 & P0316

Which comes up as

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0316 is not even listed so I have no idea what that is.

Either way. I told them I changed out the synchro,plugs & wires two days earlier.
I can tell you that the new synchro trigger shaft felt very rough as I spun it in my hand before I installed it. And this morning when I started the truck up cold I heard a loud "belt " squeak that went away after the truck warmed up. Then the CEL came back on.
So I told the guy at O's that I wanted to change out the synchro right there. They had one and I took a look at it before hand and it was definitely smoother spinning than the one I put in earlier. After I swapped them out the CEL went out and the truck is way smoother than before. There still is a very minor bit of uneven idle and just a hint of hesitation from off idle but it clears up very quickly. I bought some of the Seafoam and will do that tomorrow. Maybe that will finish it off.
I will post back with the results and also if I have any issues. I hope not!
 
And now this morning the CEL is back on! I would bet my paycheck it says the same codes again!
But the engine seems to be running no worse than last night. Today I will do the Seafoam and see what happens.

I feel like I am talking to myself!
 
Yeah, I tend to agree with Triumph on his remark. Prior to that though.... are you certain all of the wires are on the pack correctly? Every OEM coilpack I've seen has the cylinder diagram listed right in the coilpack. No need in going to the tech library if yours does - and provided you understand how Ford numbers their cylinders.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem
 
I didn't know you had the CEL on. The two above posters are right on the mark about the coil pack. Do that R/R first & seafoam it if needed-
PO316: Misfire occurred during first 1000 revolutions
 
Coil pack? Wow!
Is that pretty common on these to go bad and why? I checked out prices and see $50-$100 EEK!
Heck it only has around 95K on the clock!
Right now it's running better than it has in a while so the coil will have to wait till the weekend.
As to the plug wires...
I have the coil pack with the wire spots marked on but my confusion was as to the firing order on the actual cylinders. From what the reference page showed and standing in front looking at the front of the engine its:

FiringOrder6a.gif


The image does not have the same wire orientation of the coil pack as on the actual truck but no matter, the wire are correctly attached as the order dictated on my trucks coil.
 

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