Normal temp range on gauge

[Bryanp66]

Just finished replacing everything in my cooling. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses. The truck seems to run cool on the gauge when it fully warmed up. Thermostat isn't in upside down and I have 160 degree heat out the vents. The temp sender was bad when I got the truck so I'm not sure what is normal on these trucks. The temp gauge runs around 3/8 up in the normal range and between 1/4 and 3/8 when he thermostat opens. It's a 95 2.3. What do you guys see in the winter for a normal hot reading on your gauge?

Thanks

Bryan

 

[Bryanp66]

Also I have noticed once it's warmed up the temp need is stable at about the 1/4 mark into the normal range. I don't see that 3/16" drop on the thermostat cycle that I see driving. Bad fan clutch?? It's 20 degrees here today and even on a cold engine I can jam a rolled up newspaper in the fan and stop it but it's got a lot of resistance on it. Motor shut off it's pretty tight and trying to spin it I might get it to go one blade before it stops.

 

[Bryanp66]

On the last post- I mean to say its stable at the 1/4 normal range mark when it's warmed up and idling in park. Driving it is when I see the big drop on the needle

Bryan

 

[Mark_88]

Did all this result from an overheat situation?

It seems to otherwise be normal...blowing heat, not overheating...but I remember after the last time my engine overheated resulting in major parts replacement my temp gauge would not move off the lower mark until mid summer and then only it would move up to about 1/4 of the scale.

I think the dash gauges get wonky when they peg out during an overheat...

 

[Bryanp66]

No it's never been overheated. My dad bought the truck new so I know it's history. He just can't remember where the gauge sat at warmed up. I've just never seen one have a huge drop on the gauge when the thermostat opens. Like I said idling it stays stable. Driving it is when I see the big drop on the cycle

 

[Mark_88]

You may have air in the system as I've seen that cause the temp to vary a bit...but it usually is accompanied by the system belching coolant...

Try removing the cap when the engine is cold and run it till it warms up...about 5 to 7 minutes max and then check the fluid level. If it stays near the top of the rad and doesn't drop then it isn't air...but if you see it swell up and then drop down just top it up to the normal fill level and then cap it right away. That should clean out any air pockets.

Some people recommend parking on a slight incline with the nose higher and do the same thing...tends to let it bleed out the air better, but I've never had to do that...only when the upper hose is actually higher than the rad like on some later model 2.3 Rangers...

 

[RonD]

From what I have read the Ranger 4cyl runs very cold in cold weather.
Most put something in front of the rad in the winter.

The thermostat for any newer Ford engine is a 192deg or 195deg, this is to get engine up to 200deg as soon as possible and hold it there.
I think you can even get 202deg t-stats.
Best lubrication and MPG is when coolant is 200-230deg.
All oil weight(like 30w) is measured at 212deg.

If it is very cold out the t-stat might not open much, rad flow is only needed to get rid of extra heat.
If the cylinders are not generating much heat and the block/head and hoses are bleeding heat because of outside temperature then t-stat should stay closed or only slightly open.
Blocking most of the air flow thru rad to engine compartment helps slow down the bleeding of heat, especially when driving down the road.
Even seen people put that pipe insulation on heater hoses.

 

[Bryanp66]

I did burp the system when I got done. I let it run to full temperature with the heater on and waiting until the level in the radiator dropped and filled it up until I stopped seeing the level drop off a lot. I have plenty of heat, so I think the air is out of the system or I hope it is. I ordered a fan clutch today and pick up in the am. Hot or cold it seems to run the same speed as the engine idling or reved up. Never changes. I can put my hand by the thermostat housing and I can feel the rush of air coming from the fan even at idle in this cold temperature. Im starting to think the clutch is messed up and just overcooling the motor. The new thermostat was put back in the same direction the old one came out, so its not like its in upside down

 

[Mark_88]

OK, well, like I said, it does sound like it's normal...maybe your temp gauge is just messed up...the clutch fan does sound like it is normal...meaning it doesn't spin freely...it should only spin freely at higher rpms since the engine is usually moving fast providing air flow through the rad and over the engine...when the rpms slow that is when the fan clutch kicks in to cause the fan to create the airflow.

If the fan stops with the newspaper at lower rpms that would mean the engine would heat up more because it is not drawing the air through...

 

[dasrider]

My dad and I replaced the t-stat, water pump and flushed the coolant recently on his '94 2.3L. After reassembly the temp gauge barely makes it to the N when it's above 50 degrees outside. If it's colder it doesn't even make it that far. His truck is pushing 388,000 miles now and he says that's how it's always been. We burped the cooling system thoroughly.

If your heater is blowing hot air, the coolant level is steady and you're not getting any MPG drops I'd say to not worry about it.

 

[Bryanp66]

Follow up: I think I have it taken care of. Fan clutch was part of the problem, but as others have said- these engines run cool. I saw elsewhere in the forums that with an analyzer reading the temp sensor the bottom mark on the normal range is roughly 170 and the bottom edge of the thermometer icon in the middle gauge is roughly 190. If that's true, I am running around 185 thermostat closed and a bit less open. Considering its below freezing here right now I'm sure that is normal. I'm sure it will run higher in warmer weather. Thanks all for your help!!