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noob question


wakingtowinter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Messages
305
City
Portland, OR
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
Almost time for new tires and I see that online I can get a set of 35" BFG KM2s for only $5 more than the 33s. I have a skyjacker 6" suspension lift on my 94 supercab, running 33s right now and I really want to go to 35s. What is a good way to do this? I was thinking add a leaf and/or shackles in the back, but what should I do about the front? I want to stay away from fender trimming. What's the cheapest way to do it? What's the best way to do it? (I'm assuming these will be different). Can I use 8" lift coils on my 6" bracketry? Would that give me enough lift in front for 35s with no rubbing? Thanks guys

oh also what else would I need to change to make this work? Will I need a new pitman arm? I already have a drop arm, but will I need a longer one?
 
Last edited:
3" body lift or cut the fenders. The steering is horrible with 8" coils....
 
Thanks, I think I will do the body lift. Cheap and easy. How much of a hit am I going to take on fuel economy going up to 35s?
 
The Skyjacker #FA600 drop pitman arm will make the steering at least manageable with 8" coils on your 6" brackets, though it still won't be perfect.
If you want to run the 8" coils, the Stonecrusher linkage (or something of similar geometry) on the FA600 arm would be your best option.

As for MPG, I would guess around 1-2 less maybe (4.88 gears would probably get about half of it back, though I'm not sure it would be worth it to go that small of a step from 4.56).
 
Thanks 4x4junkie. Do you think I should go with a body lift over coils/shackles? Seems easier to me and it would be helpful for a V8 swap which I plan to do down the road. This truck is used for DD, easy to moderate trails, and occasional hauling.
 
Thanks 4x4junkie. Do you think I should go with a body lift over coils/shackles? Seems easier to me and it would be helpful for a V8 swap which I plan to do down the road. This truck is used for DD, easy to moderate trails, and occasional hauling.

i would, the more lift u have on the coils the worse the steering geometry will be. and since u are wanting a v8 swap i say go for the body lift.

im doing the v8 swap soon and dont really need much more lift, but ill be going 3" body and bigger tires. at least i cant tell my g/f that to make it more justifiable to lift my rig more:D
 
Yeah the bodylift will give you more room to stuff a V8 under there for sure.

I'd also still go the FA600 drop arm even with 6" coils, it'll improve things a lot in the handling and tire wear departments if you're only running a standard drop arm on it now.
 
all right, now here's the real noob question: What is the difference between the body lift and body mounts? I always thought body lifts were just taller body mounts. But then I read something about people replacing their body mounts at the same time as doing the body lift. Are they two different parts?
 
Just thought I'd add my $0.02 about the Stonecrusher Steering set up: worth every penny. I paid $355 shipped. After drilling out the knuckles and pitman arm (go with the FA600 arm), it installed in about 20 minutes. I'm running 6" Skyjacker coils with a one inch spacer and a 3" body lift with 35s. The FA600 arm alone with that set up was ok at best. It was drivable; however, it left much to be desired. I bought the Stonecrusher Steering and it is a total night and day. Truck drives straight as an arrow, no bumpsteer, handles much better. I highly recommend giving Anthony at Stonecrusher a call if you want to do 8" coils instead of a body lift. Awesome guy, great customer service.
 
all right, now here's the real noob question: What is the difference between the body lift and body mounts? I always thought body lifts were just taller body mounts. But then I read something about people replacing their body mounts at the same time as doing the body lift. Are they two different parts?

A body lift is simply a set of circular blocks that go in between the body itself and the body mounts on the frame (raising the body up the amount the blocks are tall), they are then secured into place using longer body mount bolts.
 

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