No start after m5r1 swap

[bronco2blue]

I just took out the auto from my 94 explorer and swap in an m5r1. I did research on the swap and took my time to make sure it was done right. I got everything back together and it won't start. One thing I did was splice the pink to the red/blue wire on the clutch interlock switch. I read that this jumps the starter and bypasses the neutral safety switch. But I'm still not getting the starter to turn. Any suggestions?

 

[adsm08]

Assuming you used the original auto trans engine harness did you also bridge the circuit at the plug for the trans range sensor?

If not grab the sensor off the old trans, if you still have it, and plug it back in. See if she starts.

 

[bronco2blue]

The transmission harness has two electrical plugs on the auto trans and there are two on the manual. They are not interchangable. I have both an auto and a manual trans harness. I decided to use the auto harness and splice those wires to bypass the neutral switch, because I read that's what people who did this swap had to do. Is the range sensor just on the auto? On the manual there is a sensor and a reverse light switch and that's it. Could I connect these and splice them into my auto harness?

I'm also unsure if I hooked the wires up the the starter properly. Does anyone have a starter wiring diagram?

 

[adsm08]

The two plugs are not the same or interchangable between auto and manual. It sounds like you did what I was asking about. I have those wires spliced at the trans and have just lived without reverse lights for two years because I am too lazy to hook them up.

 

[bronco2blue]

Ok I'll make sure the wires I spliced have good contact and I'll check if the starter wires are in the right place.

 

[bronco2blue]

I tried 3 ecm's, 2 transmission harnesses, and 2 starters. Still not getting anything from the starter. The relay clicks but that's it. The fender relay, battery, and starter all worked before the swap. The only thing I haven't looked at are the grounds and I haven't tested the voltage yet.

 

[bronco2blue]

Put new connections on the ignition wire on the starter. Got the truck to start but it stalls right after it fires up. That may just be because the battery/gas sat for a few weeks or because the exhaust isn't installed yet. I'm running the auto computer and harness.

 

[bronco2blue]

Ok the truck starts up and runs, but it boggs down at high rpms. It shifts good, has good low end power when I'm working the clutch, but I can't coast at a constant speed without losing all throttle response. The only way I can drive the truck is to keep my foot pressed slightly on the clutch pedal at all times. This revs up the motor and allows me to accelerate, but I still can't drive at a constant speed without bogging down.

Does anyone know what this could be? The truck drives the same with either a manual or automatic computer so I ruled that out. My vacuum lines have all been replaced or plugged so I don't think I have any air leaks under the hood. I had to buy a new y pipe and I broke two of the four studs removing the old one. I couldn't drill them out so I bolted up the y pipe with just one stud per side. Also the y-pipe to converter flange studs are missing a nut at the moment. So there's definitely an exhaust leak that must be fixed, but would that cause these symptoms?

The oddest part is that ever since the transmission swap my check engine light wont flash codes anymore. I'm using the same method that's always worked for me...jumping the ecu test circuit with a copper wire and counting how many times the CEL flashes. Sometimes it will flash really fast like it's about to work, but then it never does anything. So I'm unable to check for codes