No Spark please help

[RaginRanger]

Had the truck running, but extremely roughly, and so I changed the dist cap, rotor and the plug wires, in the process of removing the old dist cap the two screws holding it down snapped. I had to remove the distributor and have since reinstalled and indexed the distributor, but I am now no longer getting a spark, I had found TDC on the #1 cylinder, and indexed the dist rotor to be just ahead of the #1 position on the distributor cap, I have checked for power going into and out of my coil, and replaced my coil, can anyone offer any suggestions?

Also, like an idiot, I tapped the distributor back into place with a hammer initially, the dist still turns and whatnot, and I have since been seating it properly by hand, but could I have damaged the brushes or contacts within the distributor somehow? are there power wires going into the distributor I should check? can anyone help me please! haha, thanks in advance.

 

[IMenriched]

HAve you checked the TFI or ignition module?? which is attached to rear of the distributor housing.

 

[Psychopete]

are there power wires going into the distributor I should check?

Check out TFI-IV diagnostics in the technical library...

Edit: FWIW, Also have a working when pulled Distributor/TFI from my old '88 2.9L (120K), just ripped the top end off about a week ago.

Pete

 

[RaginRanger]

I'm changing my TFI as we speak, and I've got a spare hall sensor in case that's the problem, do they often go bad? are they fragile?

Had a look at the wiring for the TFI, it looks to be in good shape, so I don't think a short or anything is the culprit.

Wish me luck

 

[IMenriched]

I'm changing my TFI as we speak, and I've got a spare hall sensor in case that's the problem, do they often go bad? are they fragile?

Had a look at the wiring for the TFI, it looks to be in good shape, so I don't think a short or anything is the culprit.

Wish me luck

Seems like your on the right track. As for the Hall sensor, yes if it is bad that could cause a no spark situation, as for often....not likely. unless one has a electrical short somewhere or over voltage??

I'd also make sure of the grounds are all very good ...if you look on the passangers side, on back side or firewall side of the engine, there should be a ground there to the head or block,( maybe a orange wire?), also make sure that cab and chassie grounds are there as well.

make sure that none of the pins or spades on the TFI (harness side)connections are pushing back as one connect to the TFI itself. some have had that happen

 

[RaginRanger]

make sure that none of the pins or spades on the TFI (harness side)connections are pushing back as one connect to the TFI itself. some have had that happen

Yup, the pin connector on the TFI module wasn't connecting well, and wiggling it has gotten my spark back!!

I have fuel, I have spark, but I can't get it to run, I'm trying like crazy to find TDC, does anyone know where the timing mark on the crankcase is? I'm looking at the block on the passenger side, and seeing a bolt and then to the right of that there's a kind of pointer type arrow, do I line this up with one of the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley? also, why is there no picture of the block timing mark in the 2.9 FAQ? this seems like something that should be in there?

If anyone can help me get this thing to TDC so I can time it, that would be great, also, when I have it at TDC, I should be lining the rotor point just ahead of the #1 position on the distributor cap correct? and it rotates clockwise, so I should put the rotor just ahead in a counterclockwise direction right? sorry, timing an ignition system is new to me,

 

[Psychopete]

Just remove #1 spark plug, put your thumb into the spark plug hole, turn the engine over until air forces it out. Top of that stroke is TDC on the compression stroke (where you need to be). Timing pointer and my balancer were pretty much on as far as where the piston was realitive to it indicating TDC (T/C mark on the balancer lined up with the timing pointer bolted to the timing cover - passenger side-ish front of motor IIRC). You'll never get it in just quite how you want it, you turn the base to fine tune it. Timing is always set with SPOUT removed and with a timing light. 10-12BTDC is what you need.

Pete

 

[RaginRanger]

alright, so I had this thing to the point where I was getting spark at the coil, but anytime I went to start it, nothing, I was not getting spark at the plugs! I checked again, and wiggling the connector at the TFI module was having an affect. I've since made sure all the pin connectors at the module are for sure connecting properly, and I'm now not getting any spark from my coil!!!! Does this sound like a wiriing harness issue? or a hall sensor issue??

This is killing me, the damn thing was running, and ever since I touched the distributor, it's just been phantom issues, does it sound like I broke a wire somewhere in the harness? or that I've broken my hall position sensor?

please help!!!!

 

[RustedRanger]

Have you had the coil unplugged? I checked out my wires on that side one day just to make sure they were good,all I unplugged was the coil and the noise suppressor(condensor mounted on the coil),the plug-in to the coil looked good but after I plugged it back in,it wouldnt start at all. A friend checked it out,cleaned the plug-in a little and it started right up. He used a diagnostic computer on it and the coil was weak and the plug-in was bad,he could wiggle it and make it run better and worse. It might not be your problem but you might check it out.

 

[RaginRanger]

so just cleaning you plug in solved your problem? I'll give it a try, we had the coil unplugged, and did a quick clean on the connections, when I test for voltage out of the coil (not turning over or anything) how many volts should I be looking at? I'll be measuring either with or without the coil-distributor wire attached to the coil depending on what anyone can tell me.

 

[RustedRanger]

It got it running but the plug-in was bad so I had to replace it. I also replaced the coil since the diagnostic computer showed it was weak. I think it tells how to check the coil here in the tech section. My friend had also said to check to make sure that none of the pins in the plug-in had backed out. When he was checking it he could move the plug-in back and forth and I could watch it go up and down on the graph on the screen and also a change in the idle when he did that.