No power

[Final777]

Okay I'm back again already. I swapped the motor in my 86 ranger and I also had to change out the entire ignition switch actuator (the whole metal housing for the ignition switch) and then I go to start the truck. I can turn the key to the on position and I have power, but as soon as I click her over to the run position, it kills all power. I have to unhook the relay and reinstall it to get power back, but the minute I turn her back into the run position, it kills it every time. I can't even jump it from the solenoid, when I try, I get sparks but she won't turn over at all. Can anyone also please tell me exactly which ignition relay I should use Ry71 or Ry11?

 

[RonD]

The dash lights should lose 12volts when key is turned to START, so all voltage goes to start the engine

Starter relay on the inner fender uses its metal base as the ground for the relay so it need to be bolted/screwed down
It has 2 larger Posts
One of these posts will have the battery positive cable and a few other wires, this is the 12v distribution for the whole vehicle
Other larger post will have ONE CABLE, to starter motor, nothing else on this post
Doesn't matter which is which, just needs to be wired the way described

The will be 1 or 2 smaller posts, they will be labelled
1 post will have an "S"
If 2 then the other an "I"

You only ever hook up the "S" post on this type of relay, to a Red/blue wire that comes from transmission switch if automatic or clutch switch if manual
Red/blue wire will have 12v when key is turned to START, no volts any other time
The 12v activates the relay which closes and connects battery positive cable to the starter motor's cable and starter should start to spin the engine
You can apply 12volt to the "S" post with a jumper wire and relay should "click" closed and start motor should start spinning
MAKE SURE you are in PARK OR NEUTRAL!!!!!!!!


Not sure what other relay you are after, EEC relay?
EEC relay powers up computer, fuel injectors and most engine systems
It has a brown base, look at the slots to see what replacement relay will work
Ford used different types of smaller relays

Green Base relay is for fuel pump
Black base is for AC if so equipped

RY71 pins look like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/A9QAAOSwolRlvGIO/s-l1200.jpg

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Okay I'm back again already. I swapped the motor in my 86 ranger and I also had to change out the entire ignition switch actuator (the whole metal housing for the ignition switch) and then I go to start the truck. I can turn the key to the on position and I have power, but as soon as I click her over to the run position, it kills all power. I have to unhook the relay and reinstall it to get power back, but the minute I turn her back into the run position, it kills it every time. I can't even jump it from the solenoid, when I try, I get sparks but she won't turn over at all. Can anyone also please tell me exactly which ignition relay I should use Ry71 or Ry11?

Sounds like a bad connection at the battery

 

[RobbieD]

^^^ And did you connect ALL of the grounding wires and grounding cables after the engine swap?

 

[Final777]

Ty I know that information I did it just the way you described but when I put a jumper wire from the s terminal to the battery positive it gets so hot that it literally starts to melt the insulation around my jumper wire, the relay clicks but the motor still doesn't turn over, I have 3 starters for it if which I've tried them all and I still get the same result, I have to have something wrong but I just can't figure out what is happening. I can turn the key to the run position and it keeps power but when I go to start the truck, (by pushing in the clutch and turning the key, then it kills the power I have put so much money into my girl that she should run like brand new, I'm so lost any other information you guys could give me would really be great ty so much for all good help, and I did check the grounds everything looks good, but I'm not exactly sure how to test ohms correctly on an automotive ground

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ty I know that information I did it just the way you described but when I put a jumper wire from the s terminal to the battery positive it gets so hot that it literally starts to melt the insulation around my jumper wire, the relay clicks but the motor still doesn't turn over, I have 3 starters for it if which I've tried them all and I still get the same result, I have to have something wrong but I just can't figure out what is happening. I can turn the key to the run position and it keeps power but when I go to start the truck, (by pushing in the clutch and turning the key, then it kills the power I have put so much money into my girl that she should run like brand new, I'm so lost any other information you guys could give me would really be great ty so much for all good help, and I did check the grounds everything looks good, but I'm not exactly sure how to test ohms correctly on
an automotive ground

Dont get discouraged. Im sure its something dumb.

Are you losing power to everything? Or just the sTarter? If its just the starter im wondering if you have the clutch safety wired properly

 

[Final777]

No I'm not losing power on everything, even I try to turn the key the relay chatters almost like the battery is dead, I'm going to try to switch out the solenoid again TMR and see if there's any difference your right it probably is something small ty so much for all your help

 

[RonD]

Starter relay's coil is not a big amp draw, so even a smaller wire shouldn't get that hot, maybe 1 amp draw
But it has to pass 50-75 amps thru it from the 1 larger post to the other larger post, and that is alot and will heat up the relay

Disconnect the Cable to starter motor from the relay's larger post
Then try jumping "S" post again to see if it heats up the wire, if so relay is most likely shorted internally to ground, replace it, new or not


EDIT:
Just had a thought, make sure to remove the Red/blue wire from "S" post first
Before the above test
If the red/blue wire was still connected and had a short to ground it could cause the jumper wire to get hot.....AND the power loss you describe

 

[Final777]

I'll try that in a few minutes but I also found this on Facebook for you possibly explain it this is correct or exactly how to do what he is describing please

Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[Final777]

Could you possibly explain this and if it works explain it to me in idiot terms please

 

[Final777]

Okay I just finished the test and this time my wire doesn't heat up at all

 

[Final777]

It still clicks but nothing is getting hot at least I don't think it matters but i should probably mention that one of my starter slots for the bolts where the negative wire runs from the starter relay was damaged. But I just ran the negative cable to the another bolt on the starter

 

[Final777]

When I attach my negative cable back to the relay and I jump the S wire again with A jumper to the positive cable it literally gets so hot I can hear it sizzling and I can watch it nearly catch fire

 

[rusty ol ranger]

It still clicks but nothing is getting hot at least I don't think it matters but i should probably mention that one of my starter slots for the bolts where the negative wire runs from the starter relay was damaged. But I just ran the negative cable to the another bolt on the starter

You probably arent getting a good ground.


Get the proper ground cleaned up and fixed and try again. Grounds are everything to an electrical system

 

[RonD]

I see the problem

There should be NO GROUND WIRE on the starter relay

The ground cable on the starter motor's mounting bolt comes from Battery Negative terminal, NOT the relay

Starter relay's cable goes to the starter motor's Positive bolt on the back, seen here: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61zzznEqH3L.jpg

You have these cables reversed
Should be:
Battery positive------Starter relay-------------starter motor bolt on the back

Battery Negative-------------------------------starter motor mounting bolt