No foot on the gas. . .3,000 rpms

[Super Range]

Hey Guys,

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 2.5L 4 banger, last summer my engine began continuing to rev after I would take my foot off the gas, so I took it into the shop and they cleaned the throttle body and replaced the idler motor, I believe. Well today my truck began doing the same thing again, when I push in the clutch it will rev to between 2500-3000 rpms, it will occasionally do it while I am driving too (like cruise control, except I don't have it, lol). It does not happen all the time but will basically at any point. It is a manageable problem since my truck is standard, but is embarrassing in town and I was curious if you guys had any ideas of how to fix it short of taking it to the shop again.

-Range

 

[Big Time]

Clean your MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner or electronics cleaner. If it still does it, replace the MAF sensor. It's a common problem on some Rangers.

 

[blkmazda90]

idler control sensor

 

[mhughes165]

check your idle control valve....the one that they replaced see if its still got the ford sticker/part number on it, usually you just clean them and there fine.....and new ones usually dont crap out so quickly

 

[rangerbronco288]

IS there any kind of a whistling noise coming from your engine? If so make sure you go over all your vaccum lines and check for cracked broken or disconnected vaccum lines.

 

[Ranger44]

Stupid question but, Is the throttle cable sticking?

 

[Jokertand]

Well it also could be caused by your vacume advance in the distributer getting a false reading from your timing. Have the timing checked and have the electical sys checked. Also it may tell you something to run a diagnostic on it. But it is true that it is a common problem for the cable to stick as well, only if it does it whal your rpms are reducing and it stops there: but if it will just do it every so often regardless of a sustained idle then check the TPS sensor, the MAF sensor, and also check your choke plate to make sure that it is partially closed on cold start and that it only opens fully when you gun the gas. If it is not functioning properly then it is possible for all of those sensors to get faulty readings and they will attempt to correct the problem by self adjusting your idle speed to attempt optimum performance under the conditions.

 

[mhughes165]

Well it also could be caused by your vacume advance in the distributer getting a false reading from your timing. Have the timing checked and have the electical sys checked. Also it may tell you something to run a diagnostic on it. But it is true that it is a common problem for the cable to stick as well, only if it does it whal your rpms are reducing and it stops there: but if it will just do it every so often regardless of a sustained idle then check the TPS sensor, the MAF sensor, and also check your choke plate to make sure that it is partially closed on cold start and that it only opens fully when you gun the gas. If it is not functioning properly then it is possible for all of those sensors to get faulty readings and they will attempt to correct the problem by self adjusting your idle speed to attempt optimum performance under the conditions.

all newer rangers do not have distributors

 

[Jokertand]

Really. So its electronic ignition?

 

[Will]

Really. So its electronic ignition?

Points have been gone since about 1975 I think.

Isn't that amazing?

 

[almostclueless]

Yep, no dizzy. In "legacy" engines that were designed long enough ago there is a cam synchronizer where the dizzy went that drives the oil pump and tells the computer which upward stroke the cylinders are on. There's not even really a idle speed adjustment anymore, just a minimum stop screw so the engine can still idle if the computer takes a partial dump.


Look under the hood of a late model vehicle at the emission sticker. They put a sticker saying none of the old tuneup adjustments can be made.

 

[rangernotlifted]

I can give u what the worse possible thing could be, umm lets see u have blown heads no airbox, a lil water in ur oil a rigged up coil, and a pair of nutz that make it look cool, damn nvm im describing my ranger

 

[Super Range]

Thank you to all that responded, I printed out this thread, and will begin to check and clean each of the things mentioned probably next weekend. I do not hear any whistling though, so hopefully that is a good sign. I'll begin by cleaning everything and see where I stand before I begin to buy any parts, hopefully that will take care of it. I'll let you all know. By the way I know it is not just the throttle cable sticking, that scenario was eliminated last time I had this problem.

 

[87 2.9 4/4]

ild check throttle cable those like to stick somtimes

 

[Kenneth S]

A friend of mine has a 98 mazda b2300 with the exact same problem, it starts the 3000 rpm idle once the engine is up to operating temp, and does it all the time when it warmed up, there is no vacuum leaks, no sticking throttle cable, and no cel or troble codes.