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no compression :-(


Backwoods89

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
6
Vehicle Year
1996
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hey all its good to be back, now to the not good part of the story, iv got a 96 ranger with the four banger five speed. It started missing a week ago checked code and it was cyl two and four missfire. Come to find out cylinder two has zero compresion.so my question is should I screw aroind trying to fix issue on this motor, and if so what the most common problem?. Or should I just get a boneyard motor and start over? Btw it still runns and dosnt knock or anything. Thanx for any ideas.
 
Most common issue if you had "pinging" now and then prior to failure would be burnt exhaust valve, or "tulipped" intake valve(intake valve can't close now).

Best thing, IMO, would be to pull the head and then reassess.

How many miles on the bottom end would come into the decision as well.

I think retail on rebuilt 2.3l head is about $350 exchange, check with local machine shops.

Boneyard motors are a crap shoot, most of the time they are fine, but there is a lot of labor involved to find out they are not fine, generally they have a 30-60 day warranty, but that doesn't pay for your labor or if "they" don't honor the warranty because of an "installation error".
But worth checking local prices on 2.3l engines, '89 to '97, as long as it is a 2.3l SOHC dual plug, you will just be using the block and head
 
If you can afford to have the truck down for a little bit I'd rebuild the engine that's in it (especially if it has a lot of miles on it). It's possible the piston rings on that cylinder could be contributing to the problem some also.
 
Hey all its good to be back, now to the not good part of the story, iv got a 96 ranger with the four banger five speed. It started missing a week ago checked code and it was cyl two and four missfire. Come to find out cylinder two has zero compresion.so my question is should I screw aroind trying to fix issue on this motor, and if so what the most common problem?. Or should I just get a boneyard motor and start over? Btw it still runns and dosnt knock or anything. Thanx for any ideas.

Worn valve seats are pretty common. Which would require a cylinder head rebuild.
 
comp

Pull the valve cover rotate the enine untill the #2 cly, cam lobes are at there lowest part contacting the rocker, then push down on the rocker over the lifter, it should compress down do it when the motor has sat over night if it doesn you have a lifter the is coming apart and is jammed or it has seized internally, burnt valve should only give really low comression 15-25 psi unless it dropped of the stem, what was #4 compression, also do a recheck to be sure you didnt do something wrong, or the schrader valve was stuck open on your gauge
 
Well valve cover is off and everything under their looks and feels normal. So I guess off with her head lol. Thanx guys ill keep yall updated
 
Well the exsaughst valve has a chunck missing, but no damage to poston or cylinder walls, still has cross hatching. So im guessing it went out the exsaughst.
 

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A piece that size is very likely to exit the exhaust, but could have damaged the other valve on it's way out.

I would take that thing down to the machine shop, get it checked, decked, and a full valve job done since it is out anyway.
 
I am concerened about the crack next to the valve in the head.
 
Looks like it is just the seat that is cracked. That should be able to be replaced without getting a new casting.

Most engines it can be. I am not super familiar with the Limas.
 
Yes, crack needs to be dealt with for sure
 
Alright well wev got the new head on it and everythong else is done now just trying to make sure I do the timing belt correctly.
 
Ok dumbass moment but what will happen if I put this belt on with the cam 360 off from the crank? When it got taken apart nobody checked the timing marks to make sure it was the correct tdc. And on the cam theirs a diamond and triangle wtch one lines upto the timing mark on the plastic?
 
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