No balls. :(

[TRH]

Honest, I like my 2.9. And I love my truck.

But I feel like I should have just a little bit more get-up-and-go than being totally unable to accelerate after about the 55 mark without going down a hill or holding it to the floor for a long period of time. It doesn't even rev above 2,000 in 5th gear..
I've put a good bit of work into the truck before it even hit the road. New U-Joints on the rear driveshaft, sparkies, distributor, cap, rotor (distributor was damaged, ouchy!), 180f thermostat, electric fan.. nearly the entire rear suspension. U-bolts, plates, springs, brackets, shackles, bushings, shackle bolts, brakelines, shocks, shoes & hardware, adjusters, e-brake cables galore.
Everything I "fixed" turned out great..

But the truck acts like it has no balls.. I seem to have a steady 17 vacuum that drops a little then jumps when revved (seems right?). It idles a little shakily even having set it at 12BTDC, going to attempt adjusting that and replacing mounts (as they're a bit squashed). K&N stock air filter.
1-2 and 2-3 shifts are fine. But after 3rd, it's pretty tough to get over 45. Once it hits 55, it's basically impossible to accelerate anymore. The cable seems a little slacked off on the pedal, is it possible it's not opening all the way? Any good method of checking this?
Fuel pressure is right on par and it has a new filter on it. The Fram that was on it was full of goo, but I checked the new one after a few days and it's OK. I have had the upper intake off and cleaned the IAC and stuff while I was at it, replaced all the gaskets and stuff.

If the 2.9l really is that weak, I guess I have little choice but to adapt and overcome with my M5R1 and get a 4.0L in this thing to start hustling a little more. If you guys have some suggestions for problems to look for or things to swap and wiggle with before changing motors, I'd really appreciate it. I don't really have the time or money to invest in that major of a change right now, so I'd just like to be able to drive on the thruway.

 

[ChopTop84]

plugged/fouled injectors? Plugged/fouled cat converter? Low compression motor? Have you tried a compression or leakdown check?

Easy to check the throttle cable. Have someone step on the pedal, then look under the hood, if you can move the throttle linkage any farther by hand, then you're shorting yourself on throttle.

My 2.9/5spd drags my 3000lb boat around all day at 55mph no problem, and can easily go 80+ empty, so you definately have a power issue.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Honest, I like my 2.9. And I love my truck.

But I feel like I should have just a little bit more get-up-and-go than being totally unable to accelerate after about the 55 mark without going down a hill or holding it to the floor for a long period of time. It doesn't even rev above 2,000 in 5th gear..
I've put a good bit of work into the truck before it even hit the road. New U-Joints on the rear driveshaft, sparkies, distributor, cap, rotor (distributor was damaged, ouchy!), 180f thermostat, electric fan.. nearly the entire rear suspension. U-bolts, plates, springs, brackets, shackles, bushings, shackle bolts, brakelines, shocks, shoes & hardware, adjusters, e-brake cables galore.
Everything I "fixed" turned out great..

But the truck acts like it has no balls.. I seem to have a steady 17 vacuum that drops a little then jumps when revved (seems right?). It idles a little shakily even having set it at 12BTDC, going to attempt adjusting that and replacing mounts (as they're a bit squashed). K&N stock air filter.
1-2 and 2-3 shifts are fine. But after 3rd, it's pretty tough to get over 45. Once it hits 55, it's basically impossible to accelerate anymore. The cable seems a little slacked off on the pedal, is it possible it's not opening all the way? Any good method of checking this?
Fuel pressure is right on par and it has a new filter on it. The Fram that was on it was full of goo, but I checked the new one after a few days and it's OK. I have had the upper intake off and cleaned the IAC and stuff while I was at it, replaced all the gaskets and stuff.

If the 2.9l really is that weak, I guess I have little choice but to adapt and overcome with my M5R1 and get a 4.0L in this thing to start hustling a little more. If you guys have some suggestions for problems to look for or things to swap and wiggle with before changing motors, I'd really appreciate it. I don't really have the time or money to invest in that major of a change right now, so I'd just like to be able to drive on the thruway.

did you check/adjust timing with the SPOUT connector removed first? any pinched exhaust or clogged cat?

and do what ChopTop said to check the throttle cable

 

[spdcrazy]

what size tires are you running? gears?

i have 3.73's and 33x12.5's. 2.9 with the m50d and its actually quite peppy. around town it is a dream to drive. and she will scoot to about 65-70 pretty easy.

i'd def look into what the fine ppl at TRS have mentioned.

are you throwing any codes? 02 sensor's perhaps?

 

[TRH]

Okay, let me try to get all the answers you guys have asked for.. as for injectors, no idea. Any beautiful way of checking without tearing apart my engine bay? Any place you can rent a leakdown kit, Advance maybe?

The second cat has a bit of a leak in the fore corner of it. As for plugged, how can you tell? No codes whatsoever, although my O2 sensor seems to lag a little bit (by that, I mean it fluctuates voltage readings very gradually, not the normal zipping changes I normally see on cars). She's on my todo list, along with a good portion of the front suspension (bumps are like crashing into low brick walls).

I plan on doing a compression/leak down test, but from my (albeit rednecked) pressure check (gauge off an air regulator, fitting, pipe tape, screw in..), it seemed to be holding a nice 90PSI or more on all 6 cylinders.

Thanks Chop, I'll check it that way. If she slack, I got some stuff I can make up into shims.

did you check/adjust timing with the SPOUT connector removed first?

Make me feel dumb. SPOUT connector? Please elaborate. I don't believe I had anything disconnected, unless I completely missed reconnecting it. But since I'm going to readjust it, let me know where/what it is and we'll see how it goes.

spdcrazy: Stock tires/gears. I want to say it's 3.4x, but it may be 3.73. I can look after work.

I imagine to fix that cat leak, I need to replace the exhaust. Again, it's on the todo list, and from what you guys are saying it seems like there's a heaping helping of failure buried somewhere in this motor I need to dig out and fix, so I'll try to tough it out.

 

[ChopTop84]

If you can get away with it in your area, just gut the cat completely. If you plug that hole, you might make the engine run worse, as that hole may be how the exhaust is getting out if the cat is plugged!

90psi is pretty low compression. I'd sure like to see something more in the 140+ range. Also, you want all cylinders to be within a few psi of each other for balance. Dont know how you do compression checks, but remove all sparkplugs, do one hole at a time with the gauge, and let the engine turn over several times until the needle on the gauge quits climbing. I dont see anything wrong with the gauge your using, other than it probably doesnt have the check valve to hold pressure readings, and it may not be scaled high enough, so your prolly getting a false low reading.

The SPOUT connector is a wire off the distributor. It stands for SPark OUTput, and is a signal to the computer to control timing. Depending on the rig, it may be a 1 wire barrel plug, or it may be a 2 wire jumper that looks kinda like a fuse holder (the ATC/spade style fuses, not the glass ones). It should be within about 6 inches of your distributor, and should be a yellow wire I think?

To time the rig, you need to UNPLUG that wire/jumper, then set your timing at 10*, then plug the wire/jumper back in.

as for your o2 sensors not cycling quickly, they shouldnt be too fast, they should cycle slowly up and down in a sine wave pattern from rich to lean and back to rich again. This way the AVERAGE ratio comes out as almost perfect air/fuel ratio. Also, on not heated 02 sensors, it takes them awhile to start working right. They need to get to 600 degrees to start working. Heated 02 sensors just work faster because they provide their own heat, instead of waiting for the engine to warm them up. Also, if your exhaust is plugged, then that is going to really affect your 02 readings also, as your not moving the gases past the sensor fast enough.

 

[Big Jim M]

If you didn't remove the spout to set the timing you are WAAAAY out of time! That alone could be your whole problem.
Big JIm

 

[Colin]

Do this to your throttle cable:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer06/throttlecablemod.htm

 

[TRH]

Colin, when I get a helper and it stops pouring ran (just about died getting home), I'll fiddle with it more.

Big Jim, this has become apparent. But again, it's pouring rain sideways, along with cats, dogs, donkeys, and probably cows.

Choptop: yes, I can get rid of the cats..but BOY OH FRIGGING BOY will it be a pain in the neck to get past inspections that way. Technically it's 100% legal, but no one wants to pass it. However, if I get the job I'm interviewing for, I can inspect it myself. It's dodgy, but legal. I've failed myself before.
I don't want to try plugging the hole, frankly. It found its way in there over the winter while the truck was sitting being wrenched on over 6 months or so. It ran honky dorey before hand, so unless doing nothing plugged the cat/exhaust...

Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Hm, you're right, it doesn't have a check valve. I had to have someone crank it and watch, but I'm going to do a proper check & leakdown when I get the hardware to.
Roger on the spout, I remember what wire that is. It's ylw/blk IIRC, but my Ford service manual calls for 12BTDC, not 10. Er?

The O2 sensor doesn't cycle up and down like you'd expect, nice and evenly -- it tends to hop around after a second or so, or else it changes very very slowly, and unevenly. Without a shop anymore, I don't have the diag tools to run it live atm, but I seem to have other problems to fix or check out first, then I'll get to the O2 sensor.

 

[ChopTop84]

Dont remove them, GUT them. Its just a honeycomb that can be broken up with a broom handle and shaken out. This way it passes visual.

as for timing, ive been working on my 2.8 too much, its 10*. I never mess with my 2.9, it runs like a champ.

 

[TRH]

It doesn't even need to have the cats there, that's what's stupid. Straight pipin' hooray. If I narrow it into the exhaust, I'll beat it out of 'em. Thanks again.

 

[Colin]

Colin, when I get a helper and it stops pouring ran (just about died getting home), I'll fiddle with it more.

Agreed, working in the rain is no fun, you won't need a helper for this, takes ten minutes and a couple zip ties.

 

[TRH]

Accelerator cable is getting spaced tomorrow. It's just a real slight slink off, so I'm going to ignore it until the rain goes away..again.

Thanks to Big Jim, Chop, etc., and the rest of ya fellas, I got the timing unknackered and now.. it grew a set! The thing freaking hauls. I'm so ecstatic, I could drift in back of the gas station for the joy of the experience.

erhum.

Motor mounts are still on the list, but the exhaust doesn't appear to be a problem here. I haven't had a chance to compression/leak-down test it yet, but after pay day we'll see. If the motor needs rebuilding for any reason, I'll definitely do it.

Thanks again guys. You've made me fall in love with this truck again. Now, how about a 4wd swap?

 

[Big Jim M]

Me?

Accelerator cable is getting spaced tomorrow. It's just a real slight slink off, so I'm going to ignore it until the rain goes away..again.

Thanks to Big Jim, Chop, etc., and the rest of ya fellas, I got the timing unknackered and now.. it grew a set! The thing freaking hauls. I'm so ecstatic, I could drift in back of the gas station for the joy of the experience.

erhum.

Motor mounts are still on the list, but the exhaust doesn't appear to be a problem here. I haven't had a chance to compression/leak-down test it yet, but after pay day we'll see. If the motor needs rebuilding for any reason, I'll definitely do it.

Thanks again guys. You've made me fall in love with this truck again. Now, how about a 4wd swap?

I always tell guys to SELL the 2 WD and go buy a real 4X4! Changing one over isn't worth the effort! It can be a nightmare.
Big JIm

 

[TRH]

It would be. Besides, I think it's lighter this way, so it's staying 2wd.

I'm going to buy a newer 4WD later for a V8 conversion. It'll be fun.