NEWBIE!!! 2.8 issures...NEED HELP!!!

[kohlbeezy]

new guy here!!! so i picked up a cheap 85 ranger 4x4 for a project. when i bought it, the truck would start up and run while constantly giving it a little gas to keep it stable. absolutely NO power what so ever. ive been tinkering with it here and there. the guy i bought it from said he might have the distributor 180 deg off. i checked the spark plug wires and they were completely ass backwards and sideways. (not sure how the thing could run) so i put the plug wires in the correct location and it wouldnt start. figured i could re adjust the distributor. got the engine to TDC and aligned the rotor with the #1 on the cap and installed the dist. still wont start. while cranking, constant backfire through the carb. just rebuilt the carb also. any ideas???

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Put the timing light on different plug wires until you can see the timing mark. use that post on the distributor and set the firing order from there. If it backfires rotate the wires 180 degrees on the distributor. Thats a 30 year old motor with a double whammy a carbed motor with a computer. If you dont need to pass smog ditch the computer and duraspark it. cap off the egr the only vacuum you need is for the PCV, brake booster and vacuum advance. You can run that carb for now just turn the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turns from lightly seated and adjust for the highes lean rpm possible. If the computer is still working disconnect the battery and go through and make sure all the vacuum lines are correct, connect all the sensors including the one in the air filter housing. wait at least 1/2 an hour that will reset the computer and make sure the idle air needles are 3 1/2 turns out. connect the battery and push the pedal to the floor once and start it up. To adjust the timing there is a connector by the distributor connector 1 wire that is the spout wire disconnect it and set the timing for 10 degrees after the choke is all the way open. lock the dist down and check it again then plug the spout connector back in. The computer should control the idle around 700 rpm. If you get that far let me know I will tell you how to fine tune the carb, if the sensors and related parts are working it should be running pretty good by then. If not you can go through the codes all you need is a jumper wire and a test light 12v to pull the codes. I would focus on getting the timing right and going through the wiring and vacuum lines before spending any money you should also do a compression test without good compression nothing else really matters.

 

[kohlbeezy]

thanks. i appreciate the help. unfortunately living in Cali i cant get rid of the smog shit and do the duraspark conversion. i just want to get it running and pretty soon probably do a 4.0 conversion on it. i really like that idea. after thinking about it, i think i have the wires 180 off. when i set it to TDC i think it was on the exhaust stroke and not compression. *dumbass* lol so im thinking if i just switch the wires 180 at least i can get it to fire.

 

[enginepaul]

I'm in California too and once the truck gets running, it will run fine. The problem is getting the smog stuff sorted out. I would start with a manual and pulling the codes. Some of those parts can be expensive and please don't try 'repair by replacement' as that will waste time and money. (ask here if you need specific parts)
Do a Google on "catalytic converter test" as that is a big one. About $150 for a bolt in one, a dealer wants $1200!

Vac lines are a problem sometimes as they get cracked in the middle of the run - check them carefully.

I use factory manuals, but a Haynes or other manual is a good place to start.

If yo go yo the Pick-n-pull website, you can look up which yards have our trucks and when they were brought in - they don't tell which engine, but it still helps.

 

[kohlbeezy]

i was actually able to get it running and timed correctly (i think) lol when i adjusted the dist i had it on TDC of the exhaust stroke so i just did a 180 on all the wires and it fired up. unplugged the SPOUT connector and timed it and plugged it back in and it still ran good. all the vac lines look good (surprisingly) it passed smog the last time so im assuming it will this time. brand new cat and o2 sensor. EGR works and is clean, gonna put on a new PCV valve and cap and rotor cuz theyre cheap. so we will see if it passes (fingers crossed). i just wanted to get it running and operating, gonna be doing a 4.0 swap in the near future.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool the best way to adjust the idle air needles is with a vacuum guage. Bring the engine up to operating temp and disconnect the connector to the idle control motor then adjust the idle air needles for the highest possible vacuum pressure. turn them out and then back it until the vacuum pressure begins to drop. Do them both twice then plug the motor in and the engine should idle around 700 rpm. To set the curb idle turn the motor off and the idle motor should fully extend unplug it and start the motor adjust the position of the motor so it idles around 1100 rpm and lock it down then plug the motor back in and it should go back to idle speed. you can pull the air filter housing off just keep the sensor plugged in.

 

[enginepaul]

Sounds like you are on the right track. The only thing that I can add is a new air filter and a oil change can get you passes if you are just a little over, other than that, you should be good. I always do a new cap & rotor and PCV too.

Double check the engine system that you want to swap; these DMV guys can be a real pain in some cases.

 

[kohlbeezy]

Wanted to give everyone who helped me a little update. This little truck actually passed smog!! I was ridiculously surprised. This little $600 find is going to be a beast!!

 

[kohlbeezy]

so...i noticed that taking off in first gear and shifting into second that there is a bit of hesitation. kinda like the motor bogs when i try to accelerate. shifts fine into rest of gears. i know i probably do not have air/fuel mixture set correctly. was just wondering if anyone else had that problem before or could point me in a general direction to fix.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is the accelerator pump working, see if fuel squirts out the nozzles up by the venturies with the air filter cover off. You can try unplugging the vacuum switch on the front of the carb pointing up. All it does is turn the accelerator pump off when not needed unplug it and plug the vacuum line.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Motorc...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce8541f5&vxp=mtr

On the front of this carb it has the vacuum solenoid I am not sure if it uses vacuum to make the accelerator pump work or no vacuum. This is the only pic I could find the switch is in between the accelerator pump and the fuel filter. All it does is release pressure from the accelerator pump and flows back into the float bowl. This actually looks like a good possibility for a duraspark conversion as long as the bolt pattern is the same. It has the two stage power valve.