New wheel bearing issues..

[exotic_4x4]

hey guys, i got a 04 4x4 4.0 ranger X-cab, just put on a new wheel bearing on the RH side...truck drove real good nice and tight for about 20 miles until i started using my brakes in town traffic, my brake pad i think have an issue with not sliding back out against the rotor when i take my foot off the brake, they drag..i used the old brakes that were in there about 5 months old...and then my ABS light came on...issue with the old brake clips? that hold them in? they went in kind of tough, theyre not bent or nothing but..should i put in a new set of brakes and try ..or what do u guys recommend?..i dont wanna go and start throwing money down the pot if its not the problem. this all occured after throwing in a new wheel bearing...i notice with my new hub assembly i put on there, there is some play in it, the other side is tighter, i had a 4' breaker bar on the nut for the cv axle so i know its good and tight..suggestions?

 

[martin]

There's a torque figure for those things and it's kind of important to get it right.

 

[exotic_4x4]

well obviously, and it only goes on so far..dont write idiotic comments, also it was the caliper pin was stuck triggering my ABS to kick on to try and release the brake pad

 

[martin]

If you don't know what you're doing I suggest you don't work on parts of your truck that could kill you.

 

[AllanD]

One "issue" with all 1995-up Ranger/Explorers with the two piston calipers is that the stainless steel anti-rattle clips for the brakes tend to cause the caliper bracket to rust
underneath the clip.

this can cause the pad to bind in the caliper bracket.

On my own truck I sandblasted the caliper bracket and epoxied the clip to the bracket.

My thought was that if epoxy is properly bonded to both surfaces and occupying the space that no corrosive liquid could get in there and cause the iron caliper bracket to rust.

BTW, "rust" takes up seven times the volume of the parent metal it was made from...



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