New to the Ferd thing....hmmmm

[Jeroshen]

Hey all! Im Travis and I live in Omaha Ne.

Just recently obtained my first ford....surprising for how many cars ive owned.

It is a 1992 Ranger with a 2.3l turbo from an 86 SVO mustang.

its a Headache already but im blaming that on previous owners....lots of screwy wiring....and the waste gate actuator isnt even attached due to it being messed up. so, no boost.....yet.

Looking forward to fixing this little thing up and having some fun!

 

[AgPete139]

Welcome to TRS, and good luck on your project.

 

[RangerSVT]

Welcome!

SVT

 

[RonD]

Welcome

Up at the top of the page just below the main banner you will see a few links you can click on
3rd one over is Tech Articles, it is a very good link to a lot of "been there done that" articles by members here and general info from other sources

Clicking on it will take you here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml

Then click on Engines & Fuel Tech

There are 3 links in there regarding 2.3l turbo swaps, might be some info there that would be useful to you

 

[Jeroshen]

Welcome

Up at the top of the page just below the main banner you will see a few links you can click on
3rd one over is Tech Articles, it is a very good link to a lot of "been there done that" articles by members here and general info from other sources

Clicking on it will take you here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml

Then click on Engines & Fuel Tech

There are 3 links in there regarding 2.3l turbo swaps, might be some info there that would be useful to you

Wow man thanks for this! should help me out quite a bit.

Major things i have to deal with are shotty wiring on the intake bits......The fact that the turbo doesnt have coolant lines run to it....but thats fine because of the actuator being off and the waste gate tied open so the turbo doesnt actually do anything. And the exhaust is off past the down turn in the back of the turbo...yea its loud. Ive got most of the wiring figured out. I also need to figure out why it Idles so high.

 

[RonD]

You're welcome

Fuel injection can't use an idle screw(no jets) so an IAC(idle air control) valve is used, this is basically a control vacuum leak passed the throttle plate.
If you unplug the IAC valves wires while warmed up engine is idling, it will close, and idle should drop to about 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is fine, it means no vacuum leaks and the IAC valve is moving.
If idle stays high then either IAC valve is stuck(they can be cleaned) or you have a vacuum leak.
Computer controls the IAC valve and sets 1,000-1,200rpm idle when engine is cold, colder = higher rpm, target idle once engine warms up is 700 for manual trans, 800 for auto.

On some models there is a screw on the throttle linkage that "looks like" an idle screw, it isn't but can set a high idle if mis-adjusted.

Thermostat on the engine should be 192 or 195degF, some replace with 160 or 180, this causes lower oil quality(oil contaminants are not burned off), and can cause higher idle because engine never warms up, so computer keeps idle high