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new slave, no pedal


Stranger ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
252
Age
39
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Is the absolute best way to bleed the master cylinder on a bench? Or can it be done in the truck by some means? I've gotten air in the system, terribly bad and I cannot get it to leave by just pumping the clutch. I have no slave movement what so ever, but a steady stream of fluid, thats what gets me:dunno:
 
i always use a big syringe i bought from checker, its metal, has a 2" diameter and 12" length. the damn thing holds almost a whole bottle of brake fluid. and then i force fluid up through the bleeder on the slave into the master.....you'd be suprised how much better it works than pumping the pedal
 
I had a similar problem on an '85b-II I bought. The p.o. put in a 4.0l in with the original 5 speed trans. I tried bleeding by pumping the pedal, by vacuum pump, and by using the motor vacuum;

worktruck302.jpg

Jar with two fittings,the one on the right goes to motor vacuum,the one on the left goes to slave bleeder screw, the jar doesn't need fluid to start with, keep an eye on the master fluid level.
worktruck301.jpg


None seemed to work. I finally found the problem was a broken bolt flange on the master cylinder. I screwed some plumbers strapping over the master and problem solved.
Good luck,
Richard
 
looks unnecesarrily complicated, did you try forcing the fluid up or did you just find a really complex way of doing the same thing which is drawing it down?

try forcing it upward
 
If I had a syringe I would have tried that too. And I agree that seems simpler. But the moral of the story in my case was that it wasn't the bleeding- or lack of, it was a different problem altogether; the broken flange.
Another area that bears looking at is the firewall. In my research it was mentioned as a possible problem area. The firewall could have cracks which leads to a lot of flexing, causing the master to move instead of the fluid in the master.
Richard
 
I believe my problem is the master cylinder is full of air.
I removed it from the slave cylinder and you shouldnt be able to push in the pedal, well it was as soft as ever, so i took it out and bench bled it, sorta, and now the rod only move 3/16" into the cylinder like its supposed to.
My new problem is this. When I hook it back up to the slave and start to bleed it, i'm afraid the air from the slave will get sucked back in to the master and i do NOT wanna remove it again because its a pita.
 
i'm afraid the air from the slave will get sucked back in to the master and i do NOT wanna remove it again because its a pita.

In that case I would pressurize the master or vacuum the slave. Use a system like I outlined above for vacuum on the slave or find an extra master cap, attach an air fitting, and use a compressor @ ~5-10 psi or a bicycle pump may also work.
Good luck,
Richard
 
I use a modified master cylinder cap to put a vacuum on the reservoir with a vacuum brake bleeder to pull the air out through the top. Works like a charm.
 
Remove the master form the firewall, point the front end up (where the hose from the reservoir goes in) And pump it by hand while the bleeder on the slave is cracked loose. If the slave is external and doesn't have a bleeder, remove it from the bell housing and pump it by hand.
 
by doing it that way, will it not suck air in back through the bleeder and put me right back at ground zero?
 
I use a modified master cylinder cap to put a vacuum on the reservoir with a vacuum brake bleeder to pull the air out through the top. Works like a charm.

how do you keep the the fluid in the system by doing this?
 
how do you keep the the fluid in the system by doing this?

that's why i use my $8 syringe because i can put a pan under it and force as much fluid into the reservoir as i need to even letting it overflow until all of the air bubbles stop
 
so i bench bled the master, got all the air out and put it back in the truck and bam i got pedal. Only thing is, there is a tad bit of play at the very top of the pedal but i think it just needs bled a few more times.
 
As long as you can get through the gears, just drive it. It'll self-bleed as you use it.
 

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