New Member with Problems

[overheadvalve]

Just found this fantastic site and am now a proud member. I have searched and searched and am still confused. Here's the story:

2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 Flex, Auto, 4X4, extended cab. 86K miles. 4 wheel drive working on and off even though light says 4 high(no blinking ever). I did the hub mod where you push in with your finger to confirm the hubs are locked. I will order manual hub kit next week but the mod didnt help.
I purchased a Cardon remanufactured transfer case motor and installed it yesterday. Now I get the four blink, sometimes six blink, sometimes the light stays on and says 4 High, sometimes goes out, lots of clicks, then sometimes no clicks. Disconected battery, checked all fuses etc. I took the motor off then couldnt get it back on without taking off the lower rubber damper looking part to tip the motor down far enough to go back on the shaft. Still no 4 wheel drive. Im worse off than before when it would occasionally engage.
I decided with my limited diagnostic skills that the transfer case control module needs replaced so I called local dealer and was quoted $338.96 for a Body Control Module part #YL5Z14B205EA. So.....my questions to the experts are:
What am I doing wrong?
Why was the transfer case shaft not lining up with the new motor, kind of between 2 high and four high?
Is the above part the Transfer Case Control Module or something different?
Where is this Transfer Case Control Module?
I guess thats all I can think of for now. Im trying to get this fixed so my son can get back to college next week. Thanks to all for any help.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Test the switch. If you pull the Tcase motor, and have someone push the buttons, does the motor cycle properly? If you manually move the selector shaft, will it stay in 4x4, and work (motor held out of the way)?

You could test the circuits with a multimeter.

Did you install the motor properly?

 

[overheadvalve]

Yes Fritz Im pretty sure its installed correctly. It kind of only goes one way. I put some pliers on the shaft with the motor out and it goes into 4 high. When the motor is out and you switch the 4 high, 2 high switch, the motor does not do anything. I have not ruled out the switch but the truck would go into 4 high after some playing with the switch. In the morning it would be back to 2 high (even though light said 4 high). Now with the new motor no 4 high and the blinking. Ugh' Im lost but appreciate the input. I dont have a way to test the switch.

 

[FritzTKatt]

I'm not sure how to test the switch, IE pulling the switch out, or where to look for the wires elsewhere, and what not (just wait for ADSM08 to chime in, he'll have it fixed in 10 minutes LOL). But you can get a multimeter at the store for less than $10 likely. Got a repair manual? That should give you the normal operation readings to test.

When you manually shift it (with the pliers), can you drive it around on the lawn or something (don't want to drive on the street in 4x4 unless you have to)? You should know how it feels to be engaged in 4x4. If I read you correctly, then we know the Tcase itself works... which is always a plus, hehe.

Do you have an automatic or manual? My tcase doesn't want to switch into 4low sometimes, it wants to be in gear, other times it needs neutral (have a 5 speed). I don't know if that's a design feature or it's broken, but it works.

If the truck switched into 4 with some playing, and you replaced the shift motor, but now it doesn't want to really go in at all, then I'd definitely check the switch. If the motor is off the case, and won't turn when the buttons are pressed, but not lighting up, then it'd be the switch in my opinion. If the switch went to 4, stayed on 4, and went to low and stayed on low, but the motor didn't turn, I'd say you have a bum motor. EDIT: another example: if the switch worked, and the motor worked (off the case), but it wouldn't shift when installed, then I'd be checking the Tcase. While you're under there, spend the loot and change out the fluid in the Tcase. You have to remove the balance weight to reach the drain plug. It should take a half gallon or so of ATF.

Make sense? If nothing else, and you have the $30 or so for a book and a multimeter, buy them. Both will save you lots of headaches. Haven't needed my multimeter yet, but that book has saved me more effort than money can buy.

 

[overheadvalve]

Thanks again FritzTKatt. I will check those items out.

 

[Andy D]

With manual hubs, you can turn the arrow to "free" and with the transfer case set in 4H, roll around same as 2 wheel. I have a small visegrip clamped to the shaft and wired so I wont lose it if it falls. Yah , it is a mickey mouse way of doing things. But It allows for dead certain transfer case shifts. That is how the Rat is set right now. 4 H, with the hubs unlocked. At the first wheel spin, I will get out and lock the hubs.