New guy bad with search lift help ?

[White nasty]

Hi the name is nick couldn't find what I need useing search button sorry if it has been answered. I have a 1997 standard cab 4wd auto Hub automatic trans 4.0 Ranger. 3 part question. I have owned 2 bronco II and dealt with lifted TTB before. It was a nightmare! 1)So what is the most cost effective correct way to lift my ranger while making reliable? (Drive close to stock)
2) does it make more sense to go SAS?
3) besides lift what will I need to modify to keep reliably?

This will be my DD for awhile/weekend warrior. However it will be an off road rig after.

Tire size to achieve :33-35
Lift: I assume 4-6 inches
Terrain: trail, a ton of mud/water, light rocks/jumps.
Skill: average or a little above in the garage

Thanks

 

[FritzTKatt]

Welcome to TRS. Thanks for actually trying to search, but I'm not sure what you did wrong, it's all on here.

First thing, there isn't really doing it right AND on the cheap, for the results your after. The biggest thing that will get you is "jumps". You're talking axle trusses, reinforcements on the mounting points, extra crossmembers... (to be 100% reliable, even then, jumping is hard on any vehicle)

SAS can be done "cheap" but not right, and you won't get it to perform well. It costs just as much to do it right either way, effectively.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The key to a lifted TTB rig driving right after the lift is the steering angles, which means either a $400 steering kit that will need to be modified to be right, or a $200 drop pitman arm (I chose this route), mine drives just fine and it's lifted a little over 6"

It can be done on the semi cheap, just get the right lift brackets (not the drop plate for the passenger beam), I got mine used which saved a little bit on buying a kit.

 

[bobbywalter]

you can do cheap and right with your goals easily.

 

[White nasty]

Not actually cheap I just don't want to spend $4000 on suspension. I have heard you should avoid all drop brackets is this true ? How exactly would you do that? Jumping is more of a rarity kind of just rail road crossing thing lol I'm really bad with computers probably why I couldn't find stuff on search could you provide a link to a thread specific to my question?

 

[White nasty]

Little update it's actually 1995

 

[bobbywalter]

Hi the name is nick couldn't find what I need useing search button sorry if it has been answered. I have a 1997 standard cab 4wd auto Hub automatic trans 4.0 Ranger. 3 part question. I have owned 2 bronco II and dealt with lifted TTB before. It was a nightmare! 1)So what is the most cost effective correct way to lift my ranger while making reliable? (Drive close to stock)
2) does it make more sense to go SAS?
3) besides lift what will I need to modify to keep reliably?

what was a nightmare about the ttb b2's? if you disliked it so much why would you remain with this platform?



when a guy is starting with a d35.....a d60 would have to be on the table to take the time for a sas in my eyes. for your stated goals a d30 or d44 sas is not even on the table for me. maybe a ttb 44 if i had one cheap enough.


for your stated goals, i think the formula i offer as a base idea will be very reliable.

This will be my DD for awhile/weekend warrior. However it will be an off road rig after.

Tire size to achieve :33-35
Lift: I assume 4-6 inches
Terrain: trail, a ton of mud/water, light rocks/jumps.
Skill: average or a little above in the garage

this is a classic 10 guys asked 10 answers given situation.


for me, a 95 ranger is essentially a 3-4 in factory lift ranger in direct comparison to a gen 1 truck. this view is based on the ability to fit a 31-33 in tire with just plow coils or no mods at all depending on actual truck type and configuration.

with a adjustable camber bushing....what is often known as a 3-3.5 deg unit, you can hit up a junkyard, and run ttb 150 coils and radius arms with relocated factory radius arm brackets, these are sometimes shimmed down in the front and forward at the arm bushing depending on actual goals. front shock mounting and type is easily addressed depending on goals as well with a drill and a grinder.

this wont allow the ultimate in max travel, but will exceed the ranger components by inches and allow max caster adjustments which is nice for road feel.

out back a 2wd 150 spring pack generally levels the truck out.

on the later gen 3 models, that with some bump stops and maybe a bit of trimming allows 35 in tires with normal 4 in bs wheels.

its not perfect, but its a far cry from 4000 dollars and allows some ridiculous abuse.

finding select great condition components in michigan at my favorite yards may take some patience, and prices are up from the past, but i would expect to be under 200 for parts and fresh shocks in the front.

considering a high quality stock 265 tire cost more then that, i would call it cheap. and very effective.


but that is me. of course there is a considerable amount of time and labor to pull this off, and if you dont have the skills/tools/time, you probably got plenty of money from working your ass off to pay the poor bastards that can do this for you. which still will be a far cry from 4 grand.