923.0Liter
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1
- Vehicle Year
- 1992
- Transmission
- Manual
Hey guys,
So I didn't want to be that person that joined a forum just to post one question, but I'm about at my wits end on this project and I need all the advice I can get.
Basically I installed a remanufactured engine into my 1992 Ranger 3.0 Liter V6. After much frustration, gnashing of teeth and general weeping everything was set and ready to go. Last step was removing the fuel relay and cranking it over to check for pressure in all the gauges.
Here's where things got stupid. I cranked it over and the gauge read oil pressure for about three seconds before clunking back to zero. Less than zero. As far left as you can go. Wasn't a slow drop either, just "BAM!"
Later, after replacing Oil Sending unit and still getting no pressure reading, I just put the relay in and said "screw it" and tried to start the engine for real - and all it does is crank over, looks like entirely on starter motor power. Something's not catching.
Here's the steps I've taken:
1. Checked connector power to ground: When I ground the connecter, the gauge goes up to around halfway. This itself is suspicious, since I was under the impression the thing should peg out at 80.
2. Replaced oil pressure sending unit. Thought it might have just been a faulty unit so installed a new one. Nothing changed.
3. Replaced fuel relay fuse. Truck still didn't start, as explained above.
Today with the help of a new voltmeter I'm going to be checking all the electrical power and resistance on the sender, but I'm not sure exactly what to do with the information when I get it. The oil pump is BRAND new as since I've had to pull the distributor out twice I know for a fact the shaft is still in there and unbroken. Not to mention that after pulling the dipstick out the oil's definitely been stirred up. Now none of that, of course, is exactly hard proof, but that, and the fact the gauge DID read oil pressure for those three seconds - are what lead me to believe it's not a mechanical problem. Or perhaps I'm just fooling myself, but I really hope not.
Sorry for the wall of text, but I'm really floundering here.
So I didn't want to be that person that joined a forum just to post one question, but I'm about at my wits end on this project and I need all the advice I can get.
Basically I installed a remanufactured engine into my 1992 Ranger 3.0 Liter V6. After much frustration, gnashing of teeth and general weeping everything was set and ready to go. Last step was removing the fuel relay and cranking it over to check for pressure in all the gauges.
Here's where things got stupid. I cranked it over and the gauge read oil pressure for about three seconds before clunking back to zero. Less than zero. As far left as you can go. Wasn't a slow drop either, just "BAM!"
Later, after replacing Oil Sending unit and still getting no pressure reading, I just put the relay in and said "screw it" and tried to start the engine for real - and all it does is crank over, looks like entirely on starter motor power. Something's not catching.
Here's the steps I've taken:
1. Checked connector power to ground: When I ground the connecter, the gauge goes up to around halfway. This itself is suspicious, since I was under the impression the thing should peg out at 80.
2. Replaced oil pressure sending unit. Thought it might have just been a faulty unit so installed a new one. Nothing changed.
3. Replaced fuel relay fuse. Truck still didn't start, as explained above.
Today with the help of a new voltmeter I'm going to be checking all the electrical power and resistance on the sender, but I'm not sure exactly what to do with the information when I get it. The oil pump is BRAND new as since I've had to pull the distributor out twice I know for a fact the shaft is still in there and unbroken. Not to mention that after pulling the dipstick out the oil's definitely been stirred up. Now none of that, of course, is exactly hard proof, but that, and the fact the gauge DID read oil pressure for those three seconds - are what lead me to believe it's not a mechanical problem. Or perhaps I'm just fooling myself, but I really hope not.

Sorry for the wall of text, but I'm really floundering here.