New Chick!

[--weezl--]

thought i would mention, i thought all vehicles used the normal chevy style timing marks... like these:

with the arm or what ever, and a single line on the ballancer, however i was wrong, ford uses a different setup on their 302 for sure, i assume it's the same on all of their motors, it looks like this:

you can see it here, you line it up with the little pin coming out of the block

this one i think is the 2.3 though...

 

[NMB2]

thought i would mention, i thought all vehicles used the normal chevy style timing marks... like these:

You thought wrong my friend. She has a degree wheel on the damper itself and a timing "needle" bolted to the block, just like what you posted

 

[06RangerXLT]

When the truck's in neutral it runs No different.
And I forgot to tell you guys something... Since I have checked the compression about 2 wks ago, it has been acting likes it gonna back fire. when it its in park it will occasionally spit/pop/however at the tailpipe but when i'm in drive it will only do it the second i take my foot off the gas. Any idea what that could be about?

you have bad timing, and your trans is slipping.

both causes of poor power, shaking at idle, spitting and poping, as well as slow acceleration.

my advise, find a new truck. the one you have could have major problems.

 

[BlackBII]

eec-iv has a self test for this, not sure what computer system she has...

A self test for manually disabling cylinders to find the imbalance? I've never heard of that one...

my advise, find a new truck. the one you have could have major problems.

.....

Bad timing and a slipping transmission is hardly enough to justify buying a new truck. Terrible advice.

OP:

How's the fuel pressure looking? And, have you been able to find a motor in a junkyard that you can pull the timing mark from?

I bet Psychopete has a pic of the 2.9 Timing mark....what say you Pete?

Strike that, I found it

 

[RatDog8o8]

Here's the 3 pix I took of my 2.9's harmonic balancer:

The "notch":

The degree marks:

A closeup of the degree marks:

 

[BlackBII]

Good pics.

See how it's held on by just two bolts? I'd go to a junkyard and get one. I can't imagine them charging you more than 3 dollars.

 

[--weezl--]

You thought wrong my friend. She has a degree wheel on the damper itself and a timing "needle" bolted to the block, just like what you posted

that's what i said, "i was wrong, and here's pics of the way ford motors do it"

 

[sohc86-06]

welcome to the site

 

[Decker]

Hello and welcome. I had an 87 Bronco2 that had similar issues to yours. My issue turned out to be the distributer was failing. It's a PITA to get to, so I had the mechanic do it for me :-D. If I remember right, it was both the TFI module and another module inside the distrubuter under the rotor. (cant remember the name)

As far as Cyl's 1 and 4 being oil washed, you could have a pressurized crank case due to blowby (Worn/broken rings) or a blown gasket causing excessive oil to come through the PCV system. 1 and 4 make sense in this case, as they are the first runner on the manifold. They would get most of the liquid oil. Infact, they may get so much, they would cause symptoms like you discribe.

And with RPM increasing and speed decreasing/staying the same, sounds like your transmission is slipping. Check the fluid and make sure it's not brown and burnt smelling. It should be translucent red in the perfect world. If it burnt, drain the pan, fill it back up, start the truck and put it in reverse for 1 min and then drive for one min, go drive it until it warms up and then drain and repete the process. This should get rid of alot of the burnt fluid. It could be damaged to the point where it needs to be repaired, at which time, I would be pulling the auto out and swapping in a manual.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you get it figured out keep us posted good or bad.

 

[bttlscrs00x]

Welcome to TRS. Hope you stay and learn a lot!

 

[94 lngbd]

welcome to TRS & dont you all forget that shaking & 40mph tops could be as simple a clogged catalytic converter. Simple but not cheap & most exhaust shops can check it for free or low $$. Good luck