New 2.3L head.

[XLTsplash]

I ordered a reman. head for my 97 Ranger 2.3L from a auto parts store. I didn't like the look of the reman. head. They forgot to installed the oil control rod in the camshaft and the back of the cam had a threaded hole. From the information I could find the the hole should have been smooth for a expansion plug. Another thing I didn't like about the head was it had been welded between the intake and exhaust valve on number 3 cylinder. I returned that head and found a new head for less money . http://www.ebay.com/itm/361039998924?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I will post how it works out when I get the new head and install it.

 

[XLTsplash]

I installed the new cylinder head and in seems fine, I also installed a new oil pump and water pump while the timing belt was off. This new head is a all new improved casting that is said to be better that the original Ford casting that was weak between in intake and exhaust valves.

 

[Mikel89us]

Does it run good? And what head gasket is that? It looks to be a copper one, if so, what thickness is it? Nice clean build, kudos.

 

[ricardo93]

I like the exhaust manifold, it looks sick.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, looks very nice...like you took the best of all the years and found a place for it...

 

[tomw]

The heads on the 2.3 HSC tempo/topaz engines were noted for cracking, but I had not heard about the lima beans having that problem. So far, so good, so I will file this away in the grey mush.
What kind of hose is the heater core being fed with? Is that a stock exhaust? I knew they made the newer ones look more like headers. Did your head come with roller cam followers? That is one thing I'd like to do as the latest oil additive packages seem to be ignoring the old flat tappet cams.

tom

 

[Mikel89us]

That header is a stock ranger header, his truck should be the right year to have it, but as far as performance goes, is not as good as the 98-01 cast iron manifold, which also looks like a header (like the old cast manifolds with much less webbing and better flow characteristics).

 

[XLTsplash]

I used Fel-Pro gaskets with Permatex Spray copper sealer. Does anyone else use the spray copper sealer ? Or do you think it's better to use the gaskets dry ? The reason I ask is because I'm going to be pulling it back apart this weekend. I screwed up and didn't notice that the rear alignment sleeve stuck in the old head until it was all back together. I don't think the gasket moved, it looks like the head is over to the drivers side about 1/8" in the back near the oil passage. It doesn't seem like much, it must be enough that the seal on the head gasket is off the edge of the seal surface near the oil passage because I have a bad oil leak.
My old head wasn't cracked, I just had a valve train noise. I didn't know that the old 2.3Ls had a problem with cracking heads, many people have told me they do on the smaller valve spring heads used 1995 and up.
The heater hoses are blue silicone that I bought on ebay. The exhaust header is stock I just painted it with wood stove paint. I'm mad at myself for making a air head mistake. I guess I was in a hurry to do the job in one day, now I get to do it again. Plus buy another gasket set, head bolts and oil.

 

[XLTsplash]

I pulled the new head back off this weekend to install the alignment sleeve. This time I went with a Ford head gasket. It's made by Fel Pro. This gasket looks just like the factory gasket, soft silver looking finish with a rubber seal around the oil passage. I didn't use the spray copper, I just did it fords way. I don't think that the heads leaking oil anymore. I still getting a drip of oil after a 10 mile drive. One in the front crank seal area and one in the rear main area. I'm hoping it's just left over oil from between the engine and trans, after cleaning it off three times and having a drip return. I'm thinking it maybe the seals leaking. I didn't have any drips before I installed the new head and oil pump. I used 5W30 Max Life oil. It's said to keep old seals from leaking not make them leak. Maybe maybe the oil pressure is a little higher with my new oil pump causing the old seals to leak ? It was just a stock replacement oil pump by Melling, it even had the Ford part number cast into it.
I was think of replacing my rear main seal when I was replacing my clutch. A friend said he wouldn't mess with it if it wasn't leaking. Now a month later it seems to be.

 

[Mikel89us]

High mileage oil is useless. The additives they use is actually bad for seals over time. It impregnates the seal and causes them to swell, that's how they stop leaks, but it isn't an instant thing, after a while the seals will fail all together.

 

[tomw]

I do not think 5W30 was recommended for this engine. It may be too light, which I suppose could cause more seepage past the front seal and rear main seal. The lube will flow a bit more freely through the bearing clearance, and might overpower the seal(s).
You might check that your PCV valve is working properly. Use a 'blow in' advertising card from a magazine, with the engine idling, the card should be pulled gently against the oil filler opening by vacuum after a short while if the PCV system is functional.
tom

 

[XLTsplash]

5W30 is what my 97 2.3L calls for. Last night I removed my starter to get a better look inside the bell housing. I found a puddle of oil under the starter. I washed the bell housing out good with brake clean. The flywheel flange that bolts to the crank looked dry. Every thing up top looks dry. I hoping the oil drips I was seeing was just left over. When I pulled the new head back not only was the head moved over 1/8". I found the new brass oil galley plugs the head came with were not tight and had no thread sealer on them. I guess I should have checked the plugs before I installed the head the first time.
Last night I also loosened up the timing covers and get them real clean, I hope I was just seeing drips from the oil that got between the covers when I replaced the oil pump. I do have a new PVC valve installed. As for the Max Life oil, I'm not sure I like it. It's a synthetic blend at a good price. The only seals that aren't new in my engine are the front cover, front crank and rear main. I think I just got sucked in be Valvoline marketing, with conventional oil they guarantee your engine for 150,000 miles, with Max Life 225,000. It maybe more marketing than a better product. In the past I've been using 10W30 in all my cars, even in my Ranger that called for 5W30. I guess I had a old school way of thinking and the 5W30 seemed too thin. I was thinking the thicker oil protects better and the thin stuff is more for MPGs. The more I read about oils and that most of your engine wear is at start up, I began to believe that maybe the thinner is better for anti wear at start up. And almost everyone says just run the oil the factory call for.

 

[XLTsplash]

I took my Ranger out for a nice long drive and everything is nice and dry.

 

[XLTsplash]

The heads on the 2.3 HSC tempo/topaz engines were noted for cracking, but I had not heard about the lima beans having that problem. So far, so good, so I will file this away in the grey mush.
What kind of hose is the heater core being fed with? Is that a stock exhaust? I knew they made the newer ones look more like headers. Did your head come with roller cam followers? That is one thing I'd like to do as the latest oil additive packages seem to be ignoring the old flat tappet cams.

tom

The new head came complete with roller cam, followers and lash adjusters.
For my older flat tappet cams I use Valvoline VR1 10w30 racing oil because of the high zinc, the only problem with this oil is the high cost.
I've found Walmart sells Accel brand oil for older cars that has 1,100 PPM of zinc for about 1/2 the price of the VR1. Next oil change on my older engines I will be giving it a try.

 

[Mikel89us]

If you run vr1, and don't have any leaks, you can run that stuff 15-20k miles between changes in a good sealing engine.