Need wiring help

[The_Dealer]

the time has come to wire up my 4 roof mount lights. being as they are cheap lights they only come with the connectors and 2 switches. what is the best way to wire them up for as little of a draw as possible. i dont like the idea of straightwiring them to the batter. i want to keep 2 seperate switches so i can do the inside and outside seperate. do i need a relay? if so what kind do i need? i dont have much experience with relays and aux lights, besides just wiring them up to the batter. also i saw this at summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7068/

and this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7069FBULL/

and i was wonderin which one would be better for aux lighting, and other electronics? powermaster makes some to, but they are more. is it worth the extra money?

thanks guys

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

-Definitely use relays where possible.
-Nothing you can do will lessen the draw of the lights. They will always pull the amperage they need.
-Fuse it as much as possible.

As for the relays...
-Pin 85 - Trigger input (ie, switch)
-Pin 86 - Ground
-Pin 87 - Output to load
-Pin 30 - Battery input
(Pins 85 and 86 can be switched around without a problem, they activate a small coil inside the relay that then connects the battery terminal to the load terminal).

If you run a wire from a switched ignition source to your light switch, this will allow the lights to be shut off when you haven't got the truck running. Otherwise, you can use a live source to the switch to allow you to turn them on when you need them (just be sure to turn them off).

Depending on the lights, you may need fuses in the 10 or 15 amp size. Be sure to take this into account when fusing your lead from the battery. I would go with a 20 or 25 amp main fuse.

On wiring, I would use nothing less than 14 gauge, with a 12 gauge on the main lead from the battery.

Be sure that your connections are good quality. I prefer using a weather-tite connector such as a Deutsch connector, but if you seal it well it will last a long time.

Be sure to use the search function too, I know there have been a few write-ups over the years on here, as well as the tech library here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html

Here's a diagram if you'd like. Don't worry about the indicator light if you don't want to have one.

 

[The_Dealer]

-Definitely use relays where possible.
-Nothing you can do will lessen the draw of the lights. They will always pull the amperage they need.
-Fuse it as much as possible.

As for the relays...
-Pin 85 - Trigger input (ie, switch)
-Pin 86 - Ground
-Pin 87 - Output to load
-Pin 30 - Battery input
(Pins 85 and 86 can be switched around without a problem, they activate a small coil inside the relay that then connects the battery terminal to the load terminal).

If you run a wire from a switched ignition source to your light switch, this will allow the lights to be shut off when you haven't got the truck running. Otherwise, you can use a live source to the switch to allow you to turn them on when you need them (just be sure to turn them off).

Depending on the lights, you may need fuses in the 10 or 15 amp size. Be sure to take this into account when fusing your lead from the battery. I would go with a 20 or 25 amp main fuse.

On wiring, I would use nothing less than 14 gauge, with a 12 gauge on the main lead from the battery.

Be sure that your connections are good quality. I prefer using a weather-tite connector such as a Deutsch connector, but if you seal it well it will last a long time.

Be sure to use the search function too, I know there have been a few write-ups over the years on here, as well as the tech library here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html

Here's a diagram if you'd like. Don't worry about the indicator light if you don't want to have one.

thanks thats really helpful, so what would be a good amp relay to get? so ill need 2 relays to do 2 pairs of lights right?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If your going to switch the two sets of lights different you can use two relays. The purpose of the relay is so your not pulling the amps through the stock wiring. The relay/s draw very little power when energized think of it like a start solenoid. You can actually use a start solenoid to do the same thing, get creative with with multiple switches and relays. 2 or 4 lights switched inside and outside keeping the switch circuit separate from the light circuit as in the schematic above.

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

Like what kimcrwbr1 said, you'll need one relay for each set of lights if you want them switched independantly. I think the standard bosch relay is a 30 or 40 amp relay, and there is no reason why you would need more than that for your lights (even if only using one relay for them all).

 

[The_Dealer]

i looked over the directions that came with the lights this morning and it has a fuse, but no relay, does that mean they are safe without on or is it good to still add one?

also any insight on the alternators?

 

[02RangerXLT]

i looked over the directions that came with the lights this morning and it has a fuse, but no relay, does that mean they are safe without on or is it good to still add one?

also any insight on the alternators?

You should really use a relay, most light companies are too much of a cheap ass to include a relay with their stuff. If you have a farm store near by, or an auto parts store, you can find a relay there.

I'm no expert on alternators, but I think you should be fine on the stock alternator, however, that will depend on the size of your lights... someone will come in with that formula to find amps, volts, or one of those things, and they'll be able to answer that question.

 

[The_Dealer]

well i have some cheapo walmart lights right now, but will be swapping them out later on for 4 roof mount 500 drivings, and 2 500 fogs for the grill guard

 

[02RangerXLT]

well i have some cheapo walmart lights right now, but will be swapping them out later on for 4 roof mount 500 drivings, and 2 500 fogs for the grill guard

Good choice for lights! I am not sure whether the stock alternator can handle all 6 of those lights at once, but someone else who has them may chime in and give their opinion.

 

[The_Dealer]

i had 8(mix of fog and driving on my old yj and i had a 200 amp alt and dual yellow tops, and it still drained...but that was alot of friggen lights lol

 

[99RangerBoss]

when you say 500's do you mean each light is five hundred watts? but anyways if you wanna know your current draw in amps on each light take your watts and divide by your voltage (12 volts) and that will equal your amperage.
14 AWG wire is good for 15 amps
12 AWG wire is good for 20 amps
10 AWG wire is good for 30 amps
8 AWG wire is good for 40 amps
6 AWG wire is good for 60 amps
don't nickle and dime your wire I ran ten gauge to each of my 100W lamps on my bumper since im an electrician i bumped it to ten gauge for future, and yes always use a relay as for the control side of your relay the part that the switch operates 14 gauge or 16 gauge will be fine too also... if the lights are a good distance from the source its usual good practice to bump your ampacity too to take up for voltage drop along the way.