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Need to re-visit this problem


Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
22
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
History: 1999 Ford Ranger XLT w/ 3.0L.

Water Pump went bad and that was replaced, along with thermostat. and radiator cap. Had filled new coolant and air purged. Few days later coolant system over pressurizing and blowing some coolant out the overflow tank.

Took the truck to a mechanic, he does a power flush on the engine block and installs a new radiator,thermostat and cap. While on the his test drive the new radiator bursts along the seam. That gets replaced, and a few days later it splits open along the seam between the two connectors from the transmission cooler.

So now I'm on the 3rd Radiator, thermostat and radiator cap. There is no indication of coolant in the oil, nor is there any white smoke coming from the exhaust. Took the truck out yesterday for a small run, total actual running time was 20-25 minutes. But over two hours later, there was still a lot of pressure in the cooling system, enough pressure that it was pushing coolant out when I loosened the cap.

I'm looking for ideas as to what I need to check and fix to solve this problem.

Pic is of the new radiator, but in the area where the last two come apart at.
 

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Ok

History: 1999 Ford Ranger XLT w/ 3.0L.

Water Pump went bad and that was replaced, along with thermostat. and radiator cap. Had filled new coolant and air purged. Few days later coolant system over pressurizing and blowing some coolant out the overflow tank.

Took the truck to a mechanic, he does a power flush on the engine block and installs a new radiator,thermostat and cap. While on the his test drive the new radiator bursts along the seam. That gets replaced, and a few days later it splits open along the seam between the two connectors from the transmission cooler.

So now I'm on the 3rd Radiator, thermostat and radiator cap. There is no indication of coolant in the oil, nor is there any white smoke coming from the exhaust. Took the truck out yesterday for a small run, total actual running time was 20-25 minutes. But over two hours later, there was still a lot of pressure in the cooling system, enough pressure that it was pushing coolant out when I loosened the cap.

I'm looking for ideas as to what I need to check and fix to solve this problem.

Pic is of the new radiator, but in the area where the last two come apart at.

While driving, did it overheat and puke? If it does then you have problem with the headgasket.

If it doesn't overheat or puke it's coolant out then you are Ok. Some take longer to lose pressure than others. Go get another brand of radiator cap. The one you have now, new or not, isn't allowing the pressure out as it should..
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 
While driving, did it overheat and puke? If it does then you have problem with the headgasket.

If it doesn't overheat or puke it's coolant out then you are Ok. Some take longer to lose pressure than others. Go get another brand of radiator cap. The one you have now, new or not, isn't allowing the pressure out as it should..
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:

Nah didn't overheat or puke, temp stayed right in the middle of the temp gage.

But when the last radiator went out, it was running at normal temp, right up until it busted.
 
Ok

Alright I found someone who has encountered this problem as well.

From the information I was given, won't know if its right or wrong until this weekend. But I was told it is possible for the head gasket to leak directly in to the cooling jacket. It has something to do with the way things are ported on the heads. And there is a water jacket port and a exhaust port right next to each other and this is usually where the "break" occurs.

Funny part is there are two different sets of head gasket kits, and it depends on "when" the truck was made as to which set you need. Luckily my Ranger was built in Nov 98, which means the head gasket set I needs is the cheaper one, $70.00 instead of $94.00.
 
Probably a cracked head. It is rare but, it does happen on late 90's 3.0s. Head gaskets don't fail as they are cast iron block/heads. I like to swap on the E6 castings as they never crack.
 

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