Need the Ninja Secrets for replacing #3 spark plug...

[fixizin]

Looks like a lot of A/C evaporator machinery in the way... better do it while I have the heater hoses off for maximum maneuvering and swearing room...

So besides a U-joint and just-the-exact-length-you-don't-have ratchet extension, what else do I need to know???

PS: I have conflicting info on the GAP to use... .044???

 

[Earl43P]

I'e never had a bit of trouble on the PS side of the engine's spark plugs. I have been known to adapt 1/4 and 3/8 drive extensions to get a more appropriate length, but all I recall is a single 4" extension on that side.

I do pull the DS wheel off to do the DS though. (yeah, yeah, I'm old, don't bend well, like to sit while I work, blah, blah, it's easy with that tire off, trust me, especially if you are replacing the plug wires.)

.046" gap sounds right to me. Isn't it on the sticker under the hood?

 

[90rangersuper]

i went from underneath just behind the wheel well, had the plug socket on the plug and had to take a wrench to the end of the plug socket, not the easiest way but i didnt wanna jack the truck up for one f'in plug. still was easier than changing the back 3 plugs on my buddies beretta,

 

[almostclueless]

I have a 98 3.0, with A/C (of course)


You look very silly right now.

 

[fixizin]

Thanks guys, so I guess the "secret" is go through the wheel-well... works for me. Tires need rotating anyway... and at 33K miles, those brakes could use some inspecting as well. All part of my bumper-to-bumper refurb of the old/young gal.

(Right) fender well was often the tool-path of choice on a Taurus I had as well.

As for spark gap, I guess the on-vehicle sticker is more believable than the owner's manual or generic multi-year shop manuals, eh?