Need some input on dimming lights

[Ditchbanger]

Im sure many of you have heard the classic issue of lights dimming when the bass hits hard. It only happens with music cranked and when im listening to hick hop haha. Im in progress of doing the big 3 upgrade. My question is, what should I run for a fuse or link from my alt to my battery? I have a 50 amp fuse laying around and was just thinking that as long as nothing shorts out (never has happened before) that I shouldnt have any problems. Last question is lots of people say that capacitors are junk. If its only happening on hardest hitting beats shouldnt a cap help me?

 

[William Spitzer]

My friend was having the same issues in his Honda (2-10" subs 1200 watt amp) , he put a 1 farad cap in his system and it doesent dim the lights at all anymore. Shy away from the cheap ones of eBay and Amazon, check your local pawn shops, sound systems are the first thing to go when people are hard up for money, you can usually pick up a decent one there for less than $80.

 

[RangerSVT]

Your truck has a 95 amp alternator, the explorers run a 130 amp, bolt in swap. Also, agreed on the capacitor, it does work. Do yourself a favor and invest in an alumapro 5 farad cap. They are the best money can buy...


SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Your truck has a 95 amp alternator, the explorers run a 130 amp, bolt in swap. Also, agreed on the capacitor, it does work. Do yourself a favor and invest in an alumapro 5 farad cap. They are the best money can buy...


SVT

 

[Ditchbanger]

Thanks guys. I unbridged my amp and Im getting just as good sound quality without dimming. I will def add a cap when I throw a second sub in.

 

[adsm08]

A bigger alternator is not likely to help you because the alternator won't pick up fast enough for that.

The Focus ST had a better sound system than the other models, but it has the same alternator. What you need is a bigger battery.

And a cap.

 

[RonD]

Yes, unless lights are dimming all the time a bigger alternator wouldn't help, wouldn't hurt either, if your current alt. ever has a problem a bigger amp alternator costs the same and bolts right in, so why not.

A working(running) alternator should show approx. 13.8vDC at the battery all the time, as you turn on accessories voltage will drop to 13.5vDC and then pop back up to 13.8vDC as alternator's voltage regulator adds more power to compensate.
When voltage drops below 13vDC and lights are on you will notice it as dimming.

An no, lights should never dim while idling, that's a sign of 1 of the 3 fields in the alternator failing, or if you have added a sh!t load of electrics then its a sign to get a bigger alternator, lol.

For subwoofer/bass amps a capacitor is the best fix.
A capacitor is like a quick release battery, it stores a charge and then releases it, as long as it is a short high current draw and not too many in a row a cap will prevent the dimming.
These are placed in circuits to stabilize voltage, which is what you need

 

[killj0y]

Your truck has a 95 amp alternator, the explorers run a 130 amp, bolt in swap. Also, agreed on the capacitor, it does work. Do yourself a favor and invest in an alumapro 5 farad cap. They are the best money can buy...


SVT

Just upgraded mine the explorer alt can confirm it's a direct swap

 

[1994_4x4]

Re-ground your battery. I already know that's my problem.