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Need some help.


Claydog114

New Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
Hi all. I'm new here this is my first post. I'm about ready to blow my truck up. I have a 99 ford ranger with a 5spd. I've been having a low power issue for awhile. Truck has 197k mi on it. It's my only source of transportation currently. Two days ago I started hearing an exhaust leak. Turned out to be my egr tube had split. So I changed it and now I have a no start condition. Checked my inertia switch. It's fine. I'm getting 52psi at the shrader valve on the fuel rail, within spec. 47-63psi is the variance. I've got fire from the coil pack as well. But all it does is spin over. The first time I started it, it ran like shit. It was missing really bad and I went under the hood and manually gave it throttle and it wouldn't rev up. And then it died and hasn't started since. I'm at a loss here and need some direction.

Truck has brand new injectors, fuel rail, fuel filter and plugs. The last few days "since the exhaust leak started" it's been extremely low on power like it wasn't getting enough fuel. So I changed the fuel filter to no avail. No codes from the PCM either.
 
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Since EGR tube was leaking before you heard it I would suspect EGR valve may be stuck open a bit, this was giving you lower power and now that EGR tube is fixed all the exhaust is flowing into intake fouling the fuel/air mix and causing a no start.

3.0l can build up carbon this can prevent EGR valve from closing all the way.

Yes, fuel, spark and compression = start up, so assuming there is compression and spark a fouled fuel mix would seem likely.

Did you get all the vacuum lines back on, lean mix can also cause a no start, but it is a long shot since cold engine will cause rich mix from computer
 
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Thanks for the reply Ron. The egr is clean and working. I cleaned it and checked it for smooth operation when I removed it while I was changing the erg tube. It had no build up. I also cleaned the iac valve and throttle body. Before all this happened it was always throwing a rich code. And it had a miss on the #2 cyl. I ordered a new coil and wires and it'll be in Tuesday. But when the exhaust leak happened it started throwing lean codes and had no power. So now that the exhaust issue is fixed I'm getting a no run. I just replaced the cps just incase and it changed nothing so I just wasted $30. I'm really pulling my hair out. Especially cuz I have to work tomm.
 
Before all this happened it was always throwing a rich code. And it had a miss on the #2 cyl.

Not that this is your no start cause but I'd do a compression check, especially on #2. At 197K you may be having more than one issue.

Did you try holding accelerator to floor while cranking?
 
Worn out or damaged throttle cable? The throttle cables on these trucks tend to stretch over time, and can limit the amount the throttle plate is able to open relative to the amount you're pushing the pedal.
 
Thanks for the responses.
I'm pretty sure I've figured out what my problem is. Since I've changed the cank position sensor, camshaft position sensor, egr pressure/temp sensor, the hoses going from the egr tube to the sensor and the coil, I still had a no run issue. Well I put a set of plugs in it today. The plugs that were in it didn't look very good, some did, some didn't. But after the plug change, I got it to run. I can't get it to turn up much but when I get it to turn up its max rpms which sounds about like maybe 2500-3000 rpms it blows off the larger of the two egr hoses which happens to be the rear hose which is right where the egr actually started to split. So that's telling me I have a major restriction in my exhaust which has to be my cats. So they are next on the list to change and I'm pretty sure it'll be good after that. I'll keep y'all posted.
 
Yes, reads like exhaust blockage.
 

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