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Need some advice for my DIY paint job....


Duane867

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I had planned on purchasing this turbine paint system from Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-turbine-spray-system-66297.html
( click on the link at HF's site and download the PDF manual. you get a MUCH better idea of uses for it then the lame description on their site.)

I wanted to try and use it on my little mule this summer to give it a decent DIY coat of paint. Has a siphon fed gun set up and produces 60 cfm at 4psi.
 

Those turbine systems suck.
You'd be better off buying a real spray gun.
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-66222.html, this one actually works pretty good for a cheap gun. You need to throw the cup away and put a SATA cup on it. The SATA cup will cost you what the Harbor Freight gun costs. The cup on the HF gun leaks. You will need a decent size compressor to keep up with it. It is still HVLP but atomizes the paint alot better than those turbine systems.
 
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Gotch'a.
Yeah I had never seen them before at HF and though tit may be good to at least spray primer with ? But if they suck they suck. Have you used them then I take it ?

I have been searching craigs list and found a 1.5 hp old dual piston paint sprayer made by crafstman for $125 near me. sprays 7.3 cfm at @ 40 PSI and can be wired for 220 or 120. Looks a little worn but if it functions properly I wonder if I could buy and use that to do the job ?

DSC05810.jpg


If I buy it though I think I'll offer $80 - $90 max. Looks beat hard and put away wet.
 
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Gotch'a.
Yeah I had never seen them before at HF and though tit may be good to at least spray primer with ? But if they suck they suck. Have you used them then I take it ?

I have been searching craigs list and found a 1.5 hp old dual piston paint sprayer made by crafstman for $125 near me. sprays 7.3 cfm at @ 40 PSI and can be wired for 220 or 120. Looks a little worn but if it functions properly I wonder if I could buy and use that to do the job ?

DSC05810.jpg


If I buy it though I think I'll offer $80 - $90 max. Looks beat hard and put away wet.

I was an auto painter for many years, then tech rep for a paint manufacturer (SIKKENS), now insurance adjuster.... we demo'd lots of different turbine systems over the years and they all sucked. That compressor would probably work its ass off...you need like 6 horse or better and 2 stage is preferable. I used my 6 horse single stage to do a jeep in my gagrage a few years back and it worked its ass off. For something smaller you may be ok.
 
Standard cab short box 93'. Doing the whole enchalada. Planned on doing the cab, hood, bed, front fenders and tail gate all separately. One side of the bed at a time then then inside the bed. Doors separately as well. Figured it would ease the gun time a little doing it panel by panel so to speak.

No way I could make the space or come up with the cash for a 6 hp or better compressor.
 
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Use a water oil separator in line to the pant gun and just get a cheap HVLP spray gun. I painted my ranger and boat last summer in the car port. Use a good two part primer and compatible top coat just keep in mind if your gonna clear coat timing is criticle between the top coat and the clear. I had a problem with bugs getting on the wet paint but if yon just let the paint cure then you can pick them off easy enough or wipe the surface with thinner prior to the next coat. It is all in the prep and research your coatings good for times temps and additives and compatibility and if you can make a dust free booth use a fam and filter setup to give it a posative filtered pressure while your shooting it until the initial cure is done and lots of light coats in both up and down then side to side application and you can have a real professional look. prep prep prep and time your coatings with cure times all the way thru the clear coat or it will eventually peel. A good single stage paint works pretty good for the rookie like me I just dont want the rust.
 
just roll it like the $50 rustoleum paint jobs on you tube-i m only half joking-find the WRANGLER the guy did for $30 as he already had some of the stuff-its what i am going to do not this summer but next as i can see my paint is already wrecked from just 3 trips to the woods:icon_rofl:
 
I picked up one of these for my paint job;

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-concours-paint-gun-w-1-2-tip.html

I was about to invest in a much larger compressor until i got this gun. For home brewed paint jobs it works pretty well. I did get the 1.4 and 1.8 tips. This thing is quoted to run on 29psi at 4cfm. I found that a little more pressure worked for me, at 32psi spraying Kirker single stage urethane.
 
Little pricey for me but the low operating pressure and CFM has me thinking...
 
go to ebay get a cheap hvlp gravity gun for like 40 bucks, borrow a compressor or buy the small one you found. and again go to ebay and buy a gallon of enamel paint. its one stage process and is so easy a caveman could do it.
 
Enamel is good it takes longer to cure and a good sanding primer epoxy two part a couple wet sands wipe it clean with paint thinner prior to the top coat and lots of light coats to keep from runs. Have plenty of thinner/cleaner and strainers handi strain every cup as you put it in the gun and clean the gun good between coats. I just used the little water separators/disposable that screw into where the air line plugs in. the gun
 
Anyone know of any books or websites that go into this in depth that are not a complete waste of time?

I almost started a thread about this a couple days ago, with my powertrain pretty much done and some minor suspension stuff yet to do the next phase is the body. I know it is more of an art than a science, which kinda has me holding my breath on it. :scare:

I one new fender squirreled away, but I still have another fender, hood, bed and tailgate to go before paint, so I still have a ton of time for research. :icon_idea:
 
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There is alot of good info out there pick the paint you want to use prep prime and sand till your ready for the topcoat. Use recommended thinners and additives and do a tack coat then keep applying the paint but dont let it fully cure between coats. Light coats up and down then side to side for best coverage and avoid runs. Always wipe the surface with either thinner or acetone just prior to each coat as a degreaser and if your gonna clear coat make sure it is compatible with your topcoat and pay special attention to cure times or it will scab off.
 

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