2.3L ('83-'97) Need radio noise capacitor/supressor/condenser

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Which ever way you want to describe it...I need two of them and can't find one anywhere. I've tried Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Amazon and Ebay and can't find one anywhere. I also checked with Lakeland Ford, my local dealer and another couple of dealerships online and still no luck. Any of you guys know where I can find this thing? I'm just about ready to get a couple condensers for some older Fords and see what happens. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Loonasea

 

[RobbieD]

1990 truck, 2.3, in the sig, right?

Is this alternator whine or ignition static?

It's not a stock radio, right? Does the setup include a separate amp?

I don't know where to get the old-school noise filters these days, but I'd start looking with Crutchfield, or a local stereo shop, if such a thing even exists anymore.

Basically, noise in the older stereo systems is very dependent on how the equipment power wires are connected and ran, and more importantly on how the equipment is grounded, and to some extent how the speaker wires are routed. There's a good chance you can reduce or eliminate the noise without a filter by correcting any less than ideal wiring.

 

[Dirtman]

Old timey CB shops usually still sell them but as Robbie said, they are kinda obsolete and usually unnecessary if everything is wired right.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Thanx for the replies guys, yes it's a 90 2.3l, everything is still factory and working well. Been doing some work on it and noticed that one of the condensers was missing. It came with two, one on each coil pak but one was missing so I just thought I'd replace it, trying to keep everything stock. The only change I've made is swapping my exhaust manifold for a factory header.

 

[Dirtman]

If you're talking about the little one that bolts on with the coil pack I've never seen two. Just one on the front coil pack.

 

[scotts90ranger]

On my '90 it came with two, one on each coil pack. Honestly I don't think I'm running any anymore, I don't have any radio noise but don't have an antenna and haven't tried FM in a while let alone AM...

on the '90 they came with two mounts, one on the passenger side in the very top front and one on the drivers side back behind the alternator if I remember right (I'm only running the passenger side coil now).

 

[RonD]

Just FYI these are not year or engine specific as far as a rating, only thing you need to match up is the plug in, the connector, just to make it "plug and play"
But you could just ground it and splice its wire to 12v coil pack wire, if that lead is missing

Ford used this type starting when they switch over to coil packs: https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server.../P1012446__84320.1465403514.1280.1280.JPG?c=2

It's Grounded to a bolt on the coil pack then plugging into the 12v coil wire
On some 2.3ls there were 2 of them, one for each coil pack and on V8s as well, but.........since both coils shared the same 12v wire just using 1 is fine

These are ONLY for noise suppression for Radio tuners, nothing to do with drive train operation

It's called: Ford Radio Suppression Capacitor
Any will do the job

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Yep, I have the two coil packs, one on each side of the engine, the passenger side is gone and the plug on the wire harness is missing the plastic part, just has the metal connector. I figured I'd just cut, splice and put a piece of shrink tube on it. The guy at Auto Zone said he could order one so I'll know if we were othe same page when I go to pick it up. Thanx for all the replies fellers, I do appreciate all the replies and the info.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Just FYI these are not year or engine specific as far as a rating, only thing you need to match up is the plug in, the connector, just to make it "plug and play"
But you could just ground it and splice its wire to 12v coil pack wire, if that lead is missing

Ford used this type starting when they switch over to coil packs: https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server.../P1012446__84320.1465403514.1280.1280.JPG?c=2

It's Grounded to a bolt on the coil pack then plugging into the 12v coil wire
On some 2.3ls there were 2 of them, one for each coil pack and on V8s as well, but.........since both coils shared the same 12v wire just using 1 is fine

These are ONLY for noise suppression for Radio tuners, nothing to do with drive train operation

It's called: Ford Radio Suppression Capacitor
Any will do the job

Thanx "RonD", I would just run the one I have but I've already ordered one so if it is indeed the correct part I'll put it on. I don't like to order something and not pick it up since the guy spent about 20 min. checking his stock and finding one on his computer. I may not need it but he spent his time trying to help me so I'm obligated to go get it...it's just a me thing. Thanx for the time you spent replying and for the information, it was most helpful. Loonasea

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Just FYI these are not year or engine specific as far as a rating, only thing you need to match up is the plug in, the connector, just to make it "plug and play"
But you could just ground it and splice its wire to 12v coil pack wire, if that lead is missing

Ford used this type starting when they switch over to coil packs: https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server.../P1012446__84320.1465403514.1280.1280.JPG?c=2

It's Grounded to a bolt on the coil pack then plugging into the 12v coil wire
On some 2.3ls there were 2 of them, one for each coil pack and on V8s as well, but.........since both coils shared the same 12v wire just using 1 is fine

These are ONLY for noise suppression for Radio tuners, nothing to do with drive train operation

It's called: Ford Radio Suppression Capacitor
Any will do the job

On my '90 it came with two, one on each coil pack. Honestly I don't think I'm running any anymore, I don't have any radio noise but don't have an antenna and haven't tried FM in a while let alone AM...

on the '90 they came with two mounts, one on the passenger side in the very top front and one on the drivers side back behind the alternator if I remember right (I'm only running the passenger side coil now).

Correct me if I'm wrong but the pass. side coil is the primary and is for the "power" spark plugs and the one on the driver side is for the "secondary" or exhaust burning spark plugs. Is that right? And thanx for your reply too.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Old timey CB shops usually still sell them but as Robbie said, they are kinda obsolete and usually unnecessary if everything is wired right.

Thanx "Dirtman", I'm just replacing it 'cause it came the truck came with two and I just want it to be "politically correct" so to speak, just keeping it as original as I can. The guy at my local AutoZone said he could order me one so I'll find out today if we were on the same page part wise when I go to pick it up. Factory radio so no wiring has been changed. If not then I'll just run one.

 

[RonD]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the pass. side coil is the primary and is for the "power" spark plugs and the one on the driver side is for the "secondary" or exhaust burning spark plugs. Is that right? And thanx for your reply too.

I will correct you because that's wrong, but a popular Myth
Dual spark adds extra power, that's the point of having dual spark plugs, more power
So both spark plugs fire at the same time or there would be no point in having dual spark plugs

What confused people that only knew about distributor type spark systems was they didn't know about the first spark system used in gasoline engines and still used in all single cylinder engines
Crank spark timing, any single cylinder gas engine has this, i.e. lawn mower, ATV, motorcycle, any 4-stroke single cylinder engine, and ALL 2-strokes, lol
The Spark plug fires at each TDC, power stroke and exhaust stroke, very simple system, used since the late 1800's

Ford calls theirs a Waste Spark system, because the spark on exhaust stroke is wasted, and no its not for emissions, it sparks just because its easier to do crank timed spark when doing distributorless engines

Primary and secondary coil pack labels are a bit misleading, in 1989 when 2.3l first got the distributorless system only the Exhaust side(passenger side) coil pack was used for startup and intake side was disabled
This was done to get a hotter spark when voltage drops while starter motor is on
So exhaust side coil pack got the Primary label at that time
Intake side coil pack was enabled after RPMs were above 400, cranking speed is 200rpm, just FYI

1990 might still use the single coil pack at start up
You can test that by unplugging exhaust side coil pack and then try to start engine
If it doesn't start then computer is disabling intake side coil pack on start up
Doesn't matter really unless exhaust side coil pack should fail, lol

But both coil packs are firing every TDC when engine is running, there is no Primary or Secondary at that time

And in case you were wondering why all engines don't use dual spark plugs
Distributorless spark systems on multi-cylinder engines only came about in the 1980's and just a few years later engines with 4 valves per cylinder were being designed, Double Overhead Cams(DOHC)
These offered even more power than dual spark so were a better use of head space(combustion chamber)

Airplane engines used dual spark plugs for more power but also for safety, they have 2 separate spark systems in case one fails, they use both for take off and landing when power is critical but usually switch off one spark system when cruising

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

I will correct you because that's wrong, but a popular Myth
Dual spark adds extra power, that's the point of having dual spark plugs, more power
So both spark plugs fire at the same time or there would be no point in having dual spark plugs

What confused people that only knew about distributor type spark systems was they didn't know about the first spark system used in gasoline engines and still used in all single cylinder engines
Crank spark timing, any single cylinder gas engine has this, i.e. lawn mower, ATV, motorcycle, any 4-stroke single cylinder engine, and ALL 2-strokes, lol
The Spark plug fires are each TDC, power stroke and exhaust stroke, very simple system, used since the late 1800's

Ford calls theirs a Waste Spark system, because the spark on exhaust stroke is wasted, and no its not for emissions, it sparks just because its easier to do crank timed spark when doing distributorless engines

Primary and secondary coil pack labels are a bit misleading, in 1989 when 2.3l first got the distributorless system only the Exhaust side(passenger side) coil pack was used for startup and intake side was disabled
This was done to get a hotter spark when voltage drops while starter motor is on
So exhaust side coil pack got the Primary label at that time
Intake side coil pack was enabled after RPMs were above 400, cranking speed is 200rpm, just FYI

1990 might still use the single coil pack at start up
You can test that by unplugging exhaust side coil pack and then try to start engine
If it doesn't start then computer is disabling intake side coil pack on start up
Doesn't matter really unless exhaust side coil pack should fail, lol

But both coil packs are firing every TDC when engine is running, there is no Primary or Secondary at that time

And in case you were wondering why all engines don't use dual spark plugs
Distributorless spark systems on multi-cylinder engines only came about in the 1980's and just a few years later engines with 4 valves per cylinder were being designed, Double Overhead Cams(DOHC)
These offered even more power than dual spark so were a better use of head space(combustion chamber)

Airplane engines used dual spark plugs for more power but also for safety, they have 2 separate spark systems in case one fails, they use both for take off and landing when power is critical but usually switch off one spark system when cruising

Dam man thanx, I was totally wrong. I read online about guys changing the firing order on the "secondary" coil to make the plugs all fire at the same time to get more power. So now it seems that they are all already firing at the same time so I guess those guys were wasting their time? There is nothing like an education...wish I had one. I'm getting one here thanx to you and the other guys on here and I surely do appreciate your time and knowledge. Now if my 67 year old brain can absorb this info. (after several readings of course), I'll be ahead of the game. I will indeed read your post several times so it can sink in, things are harder for me to remember now (8 strokes later) and I have to read or hear things a few times before I get it to "stick". "RonD" to the rescue again!!!

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Dam man thanx, I was totally wrong. I read online about guys changing the firing order on the "secondary" coil to make the plugs all fire at the same time to get more power. So now it seems that they are all already firing at the same time so I guess those guys were wasting their time? There is nothing like an education...wish I had one. I'm getting one here thanx to you and the other guys on here and I surely do appreciate your time and knowledge. Now if my 67 year old brain can absorb this info. (after several readings of course), I'll be ahead of the game. I will indeed read your post several times so it can sink in, things are harder for me to remember now (8 strokes later) and I have to read or hear things a few times before I get it to "stick". "RonD" to the rescue again!!!

As soon as I get the truck running again I'm going to try the one coil start-up you suggested. I'm almost ready to put fluids back in (after two years). I'll let you know what happens.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

1990 truck, 2.3, in the sig, right?

Is this alternator whine or ignition static?

It's not a stock radio, right? Does the setup include a separate amp?

I don't know where to get the old-school noise filters these days, but I'd start looking with Crutchfield, or a local stereo shop, if such a thing even exists anymore.

Basically, noise in the older stereo systems is very dependent on how the equipment power wires are connected and ran, and more importantly on how the equipment is grounded, and to some extent how the speaker wires are routed. There's a good chance you can reduce or eliminate the noise without a filter by correcting any less than ideal wiring.

No whine or static, factory radio (and everything else) and the tape deck still plays fine too. I want to keep the truck as original as I can. Thanx for your reply, I appreciate it!