Need HELP with my 2.3l

[cbsremix]

My truck is a 92 2.3L a friend of a friend had some Hedman headers that he didn't need anymore, so to make sure they would fit I brought a exhaust manifold gasket to be 100% sure they would match (they do). So now I heard they will not bolt up because I have to cut and modify the frame. Is this true? Has anyone else ran into this problem before? any input will help thanks.

 

[Mutant Pony]

No, You shouldn't have to cut the frame. The exhaust will take some work though.

 

[cbsremix]

good I didn't like the idea of cutting the frame, is it that difficult to put the on? any precaution I should take? I am going to put them on after I get smog next month.

 

[Mutant Pony]

The cat will have to be located farther back. If the headers don't have an O2 sensor bung, one will have to be welded in. The EGR tube will need to be hooked up as well. I hate to say it but, you won't gain a noticable difference. Headers are a requirement for me on almost everything. The Ranger 2.3 exhaust manifold is a very nice piece. I plan on doing a drag race comparison between the manifold and headers in the future but, my car isn't finished yet.
From my experiance I'm willing to bet that the hedman headers are actually a down grade from the cast iron manifold. It does have a "cool" factor though, like the K&N air filter.

 

[4b316]

Your 92 has a cast iron manifold on it,correct?Save you a lot of time and effort if you just get a 93-94 tube header,has all the hook ups already there.I like the 95+ header because it doesn't have a O2 bung in it and I can put it in the down pipe where I want it.Grassroots Racing mag had a comparison awhile back between headers for a 2.3 cast,tube and aftermarket.If I remember,the stock ranger tube picked up +4 hp across the board, the aftermarket,10 hp after 6000.There is also a 20 lb decrease in weight on the front end so that helps also.When we used to have to race the stock manifold,we cut off the bell on the tube ranger header and picked up 2 more hp,ran 3 inch pipe but at over 4800

 

[cbsremix]

Sounds like I should have done a little more homework. Yeah the 92 do have the cast iron manifold .If I am not really going to notice a big difference I don't know if its worth all the time and effort. The Hedman headers I have now have two holes I am assuming a egr and an o2 hook ups. As far as the 93-94 tube headers, is that the stock ones that come with the trucks originally? Man I am even more lost than I was in the beginning, but I'm glad I know this now the more input the better.

 

[Bryan22]

heres a couple pics of mine on a stock 2.3. Probably could find some better ones if you looked around but im lazy.

 

[rangerbum]

Yes, the ones from 93-94(actually all the way up to 97, and probably even the current ones) came with the truck. The stock header is a great unit, very good flow, and not very beatable. This move by ford to put those on these trucks is widely regaurded as a "good Move".

 

[cbsremix]

So I guess I will be spending some time at a pick-n-pull right?

 

[Mark_88]

So I guess I will be spending some time at a pick-n-pull right?

the shorty tube headers are not hard to find and are fairly easy to pull and install...even the Mazda B2300 from a 93 will work since it's the same motor...so if you can't find a Ranger look for the B2300...

The bolts on the doner truck will be the hardest, and may actually snap off (as did the one I worked on) but that's OK...as long as it isn't on your truck...that's a PITA...but if you've already taken the old intake off and got the replacment the job will take less than an hour...

And it will be so worth it you'll wonder why you didn't do it before...

 

[cbsremix]

thanks for all the input as soon as the thanksgiving weekend is over Im going to try to pick some up off a 93, and see how it works out.

 

[cbsremix]

Mark_88 how did you get the you get the bolt out of the one you snapped? I just want to be prepared when I'm digging through the junk yard.

 

[Mark_88]

I didn't need to do anything since the bolt snapped up the shaft...once I took the other 9 bolts off it just slid over the broken stud...the head is what actually holds them on...as long as you don't snap one on the head you're installing the header you should be fine...

If you happen to snap one on your engine you can grind it off even, drill it and try to use an ease-out bit...if that doesn't work you can grind it off and then drill it out...then retap the threads...if necessary...it's plenty of work if that happens, but just go easy...and make sure the engine is cold when you remove the bolts...they are not expanded from the heat when they're cold and usually come out with a bit of elbow grease.

 

[lilrebelranger67]

but i i thought heating up a bolt helped to get it out? but i see how you make sense though. heat does make things expand..............im confused

 

[Mark_88]

I've tried both ways...the ones in the junkyard are always cold, for obvious reasons, and they usually come out fairly easy...I was advised by someone (not sure who) that the manifold bolts should be heated a bit...not stone cold...but not at operating temperatures because they are fully expanded at that point...if they've been sitting for a while it doesn't hurt to apply a bit of heat because they will expand just enough, hopefully, to loosen up...

If I run my engine for a minute or so before cranking them they all come out nice and easy...haven't had a bolt break on any vehicle doing it that way...only in the junkyard when they are cold and I can't apply heat (the junkyards frown on any source of flame used by non-employees)...