need help with my 1990 bronco II

[chloe]

Hi i just joined this forum and I'm looking for help or advice with my bronco. I just got it about a month ago and about a week ago the engine light turned on. It was revving really high in park and there was strong gas fumes. I got it towed to a car place that was recommended by a coworker and they did two hours of diagnostics and told me they have to replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, and cat. converter, which I can't afford to pay them to do, so i have to do it myself. A lot of people told me to ask for the codes and when I did they said there were none, and that they had to do it manually to figure out the problem. Some people are saying that the fuel pump isn't even the problem and Im really confused!! Im super new to old cars and this is my first antique car ever. I really want to learn and be able to fix it on my own but I just wanted to see if anyone has any advice or tips! also is there any good places online to buy bronco parts because Ive seen a few but are some better than others? thank you for taking the time to read this !

 

[Curious Hound]

I would check the fuel pressure regulator. Take the vacuum line off the regulator. If it smells of gas, the regulator is leaking.

Check prices for parts. I buy a good bit from Rock Auto. But comparison shopping online will save you money.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Good pages to bookmark: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml

And: https://www.broncocorral.com/tech_library/

You have a 2.9l V6 engine, and an A4LD automatic transmission in your 1990 B2, Rangers used the same setup in the same years
Is it a 2WD or 4x4?

High idle or REVing could be as simple as a Vacuum leak, an old hose has cracked and is leaking
That would cause engine light(CEL) and Lean Code
All gasoline Engine RPMs are controlled by air flow, that's what the throttle plate does, you open it and RPMs go up, close it and they go down, not an old or new thing, been that way since the first gasoline engine in 1890's
So the small right hand pedal in the cab is an AIR Pedal, not really a "gas" pedal
If you just add more fuel you get a flooded engine not higher RPMs, lol
A vacuum leak is by passing the throttle plate, adding more air so RPMs go up while throttle is still closed

You can inspect the hoses and look for problems, maybe a hose even came off
There is a Vacuum manifold on upper intake drivers side, follow the Power Brake booster hose, and check it, to this vacuum manifold
There will be several vacuum hoses connected there, follow each one to its devices or devices(T's on the hose)

Another larger vacuum hose is for the PCV Valve, Valve is located on the top of the drivers side valve cover, has a larger rubber hose attached, check it, this PCV Valve should be replaced every 3 or 4 oil changes

There is a spring on the throttle plate that holds it closed, if it gets loose or breaks then higher RPMs as thottle is pulled open

There is an IAC(idle air control) Valve near the throttle, its an air valve the computer uses to set idle RPMs, its possible for it to fail open, this would cause high RPMs, the 1,500-2,000 area if you have a tachometer

Fuel pump wouldn't cause high RPMs, not sure what they were thinking
Or a dirty fuel filter

Failing or clogged Cat converter would cause loss of power, not higher RPMs

Find another shop
Reminds me of a funny line in several movies and TV shows
"A friend recommended you"

"you just 'think' he's your friend, he's not if he recommended me"

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site. Lots of good folks on here and they won't steer you wrong.

 

[Curious Hound]

Welcome to the site. Lots of good folks on here and they won't steer you wrong.

Or at least not too wrong.

 

[JerryC]

My two cents. Buy an ODBI code reader and a vacuum gauge.
The code reader will tell you why the check engine light is on.
The vacuum gauge is a great diagnostic tool.
As said above, this sounds like a vacuum leak.
Get on YouTube and look for videos showing how to find vacuum leaks, it is not hard to do.

 

[Cees Klumper]

X2 on the fuel pressure regulator. Not an expensive part and very easy to replace. But, as you can tell from all the good advice above, cars are complicated, it would be good to have someone with experience assist 'on the spot'.

 

[gaz]

Chloe,

Pull the trouble codes.

Definitely look for a vacuum leak, replacing all your vacuum lines may cost about $20 ..)

The check engine light will turn on every equivilent of 50,000 engine miles. It is computed by the computer and it's intent is to alert the operator to install a new catalytic converter...is doesn't mean that you need one. Solution is to reset the computer to clear it (if that's why it's on).

To reset your computer, you simply disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes (do it for 10 minutes).