Need help with a 96' 2wd ranger transmission and clutch removal -

[96rangerdanger]

I have a few questions. First off, I am replacing the slave cylinder on my 96' 2wd, and I would like to know which slave's are the best as far as reliability. And Second, what is a really good clutch. And third, how do I remove the top 2 blots on the bellhousing? I put a jack under the engine and tranny, then lowered the tranny jack to angle it, so I could reach the bolts. I can barely get a wrench in there, little own turn the bolt. What is the best approach to this problem. I even thought about drilling myself some access holes just to get to the bolts. Any suggestions?

 

[snake]

I always use an "18 inch extension, in 3/8 drive, a swivel and socket and cheater pipe on the ratchet. This of course being done from underneath... I buy new motorcraft parts, too. They are guaranteed to fit the first time. If you need a deal on factory parts try full service auto parts- about 30% cheaper than the stealership.

 

[ElleShooTiger]

Ford dealer for the slave cylinder. Ford dealer or ebay for the clutch, buy the LUK clutch, they're what comes from the factory. Autozone might still sell LUK clutches, but I know they dont carry the one for my 4.0L anymore

 

[adsm08]

I can barely get a wrench in there, let alone turn the bolt. What is the best approach to this problem. I even thought about drilling myself some access holes just to get to the bolts. Any suggestions?

There, fixed that for you.

Now to answer the question. To get those top two bolts I like to leave the engine and trans in their original orientation, and get either an angle head or flex head ratcheting wrench and take them out from the top. It's a little easier to do on a 2.9 than a 4.0, but it's still a lot easier than digging around with 20 some feet of extensions and a swivel.

 

[snake]

Ha! I disagree. Once that puppy is cracked loose it is out of there in seconds. But whichever way works, right? I've actually done it both ways.

 

[adsm08]

Ha! I disagree. Once that puppy is cracked loose it is out of there in seconds. But whichever way works, right? I've actually done it both ways.

I've done it both ways as well. I think its all a matter of personal preference.

 

[96rangerdanger]

FML! Ok, so I've tried using all those method's, and the bastard won't budge. I have even cut a hole with a hole saw, so could gain access to the bolt, and cranked on it will a dewalt half inch electric impact gun. Still won't budge. Can I just shoot it off with my 44 mag S&W?

 

[96rangerdanger]

Now the bolt head is starting to get rounded a little -

 

[snake]

Bitch sounds tight! Use a six point socket. If it strips drill the bastard out.

 

[adsm08]

Do you still have the trans hanging off it? Get the back of the trans jacked up so its all back in it's natural orientation. If you don't there will be a lot of stress on those top bolts from the weight of the trans.

 

[96rangerdanger]

Holy hell. Just when I was about to throw in the towel, and take it to the shop, she gave. I ended up removing the inner fender, and putting a stripped bolt remover socket on it, then slid, a piece of pipe on the end of the ratchet for extra power. That was crazy. Thanks for all the input guys!

 

[feellnfroggy]

Like adms said you prolly still had the tranny angled downwards which was adding extra weight to your bolts. Next time mak sure and support the tranny in the proper location and angle so as to have as little torque as possible on the bolts. You got lucky this time.

 

[robertc1024]

Or just take the top ones out first. I'm glad you guys posted all this stuff though. It might make it easier for me when I've gotta do it.

 

[adsm08]

I like to get all the bell bolts out first thing.

 

[AllanD]

Remove the top two bolts FIRST and they fight you less.

I use a 24" 1/2" drive extension and a snap on impact swivel socket to get them off.

Which bolts do I leave until last? the two bolts at 3 & 9 O'clock

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