Need Help Quick - Cracked Head Diagnosis?

[CraigK]

After three months, I've finally located a nice replacement for my rear-ended 87 BII. A very well maintained 88 BII, with minimal rust, a good body, signs of being well maitained, and everything basically looking good.
Except . . .

It's a cold day (~30°F), and I ran the vehicle in the dealer's lot for about 5 minutes. Then we went for a ~10 minute drive. During this time, the temp gauge climbed fairly high (more than 3/4 of the scale), before dropping back. When we returned to the lot, I noticed that the interior vents were not blowing much heat. Hose going into the heater core was quite hot, return line warm only. Running the engine for another 5-10 minutes gave slightly warmer air, but not what I would expect. (All dash slides seemed to be functional.) While I was looking at something else (engine off now), the dealer opened the rad cap, and there was a spray of hot radiator fluid. The radiator, however, was not full (down 3"?). The upper rad hose was hot, the lower hose, hardly warm.

I realize that if there are cooling issues with these engines the heads crack. I immediately checked the oil, but it had VERY recently been replaced, and was super clean and fresh, with no sign of emulsion. (Dealer claims he has not had time to do anything with this vehicle.) I then removed the oil filler cap, and there was a small amount of off-white colored "grease" in the hollow portion of the cap. I ran a finger down inside the oil filler pipe, and was able to extract more of this off-white "grease" from inside the valve cover. It looked and smelled a lot like automotive hand cleaner.

1. Opinions? (It's a nice BII and I want to buy it.)

2. Is there ever a whitish grease inside the valve covers that is NOT from antifreeze leaking? Is this ever a normal condition?

3. Is there any definitive tests for head cracks that can be easily performed?

4. If the heads had to be replaced, can this be done with the engine in? What is the cost of replacement heads? How involved?

Any experienced input would be appreciated!
CraigK

 

[dgndngrngr]

1. could be a thermostat that sticking and just not opening at the right temp. or maybe some blockage in the cooling system.
2. that white stuff is probably condensation if its been siting for a while.
3. a compression test is a pretty good way to tell if and where the heads are cracked at. its pretty simple:
pull all the plugs
screw in compression tester tube
crank the engine 5 or 6 times until max compression is reached
record the pressure
repeat for the other 5 cylinders

*if any cylinders are down 20% compared to the other cylinders you probably have
a crack near that cylinder.

4. the heads CAN be replaced with the engine in. you have some options for replacement heads. you can get the improved heads that were on a 1990+ 2.9 from a junkyard and take them to a shop and have them magnafluxed to make sure they are not cracked or you can buy the World Product heads which would be a bit more expensive but probably better in the long run if shes already in great shape. theres more info on that here:http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html
If you are fairly mechanically inclined you should be able to do it. It is pretty involved (removing pretty much the top half of the engine.) I would pick up the Chilitons book rather than the Haynes because it spends more time on the tear down and put back together section on the 2.9.

 

[CraigK]

Obsessing . . .

dgndngrngr

Thanks for the great info. The internal link implies that the white gunk (snot) should not be there if the engine is warmed up. The vehicle had been run for at least 15 minutes, more like 20. Also, this engine had a lot of ticking, not loud, but there, consistent with low oil pressure to the lifters that might result from toasted camshaft bearings from contaminated oil???

I don't think this guy (small used car lot) is going to let me do a compression test. He has told me he's going to be busy for a day or two, and will not be able to replace the thermostat for a couple of days. (I think this may be a ploy to put me on hold while he sells damaged goods to someone else. His son does the wrenching.)

- low radiator fluid
- poor radiator fluid circulation
- white snot in/under oil filler cap
- freshly changed oil (why change oil if you are just going to trade in?)
(CARFAX report show the vehicle sold at auction 1/13)
- light ticking

Am I paranoid or what??????

On the other hand, this vehicle appears to be VERY well maintained otherwise. And I would like to buy it. The body is in great shape for this part of the country. If I had to, could I swap this engine with my existing 87 BII engine (which is in very good condition). Do engine swaps require transmission removal?
Any suggestions welcome.

CraigK

 

[dgndngrngr]

ya Craig, the ticking is normal once they get older. one theory is that the oil gets to the top of the engine ok but doesnt get back down as easily.

thats what i thought at first too, why is they guy changing the oil if he doesnt have anything to cover up?

another test for the cracked head is once the truck is warmed up, to put a towel or rag in front of the exhuast and smell it and see if you smell coolant. also once the truck is warm you shouldnt see any exhuast smoke unless its very cold out..if you do its a sign of a cracked head or blown head gasket. these engines tend to crack heads more frequently than head gaskets unfortunately. its a cooling problem too. The cooling passages are about the size of a pencil led in some places

once the truck is warm, squeeze the upper radiator hose and release it. you should feel a rush of coolant as you release it. this will tell you if the system is plugged up somewhere.

heres my guess...because it doesnt take much for these heads to crack...and if its had poor circulation or none at all for a while now the heads may have cracked. but try the exhaust test and see.

yeah engine swaps between these vehicles arent too bad. is your 87 a 2.9L also? im pretty sure you dont have to remove the transmission. just unbolt it from the bellhousing. what transmissions do you have in both?

either way if its in good shape and you have another engine for it just in case it sounds like a good deal. too bad the guy cant be more honest about it...if he is covering something up.

 

[88broncoll]

The injectors are noisy on those things, i know mine, after i rebuilt it, and got rid of the annoying cam bearing knock, had me paranoid with a ticking i couldnt figure out. Turned out to be the injectors. They are noisy. You may just be looking at a bad heater core or air in the system. Never trust a used car salesman. Always do your own investigating.

 

[CraigK]

Thanks for all the input guys.

The guy called me and said he had "fixed" it. Apparently it needed a new radiator cap . . .

I offered him $800 less than what he was asking, saying it was OK that the engine was bad, and he declined. I could be wrong, but I think someone is going to be VERY unhappy when they shell out $2000 for a 20 year old BII with a bad engine. I'll keep looking.

What was interesting was how "tight" this auto transmission was. I think my transmission has been losing me power and mpg for a long time.

CraigK

 

[88gt]

good call on finding another. used car salesmen are freaks and not to be trusted under any circumstances. that b2 sounds fishy as hell, id be don the same thing as you...getting the hell out of there!

 

[UnderMedikated]

I'm having the same issue with my 88 Ranger. It ticks, knocks, rattles etc.
I'm losing antifreeze but never on the ground. I put uv dye (from Autozone) in the radiator and found dye around the right side rear plug afte a day of driving it. The thermostat gasket was leaking a bit also. I'm rebuilding the motor anyway as it's tired. Cost was consideration. It's clean and it's paid for. I'm hoping it doesn't become a "money pit!"

 

[UnderMedikated]

The dealer sounds like a crook?

 

[UnderMedikated]

Get an Explorer radiator also!

 

[dgndngrngr]

The guy called me and said he had "fixed" it. Apparently it needed a new radiator cap . . .
CraigK

ya good call craig. from your earlier post when he took the cap off there was pressure under it so it probably WASNT the cap like he told you.

UnderMedikated just wait! forget 2.9 liters, you'll only have $2.90 left after workin on these engines lol...well its not that bad..but close haha