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Need help asap


hende

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
93
City
Oregon
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
OK i Hve a 1985 BII last night ran great shut it off then I popped the gas line off the carb and pulled my coil wire off my coil and cranked it to put some gas in a can. hooked it all back up and it will crank and crank but not fire. Tried pull starting and nothing put in new plugs nothing has great spark and getting gas. now on the wires going in to coil there is red wich tests hot while gronded to battery with test light now the green wire going to coil is dead as a ground and as a hot is that right?
 
The coil works by lifting the ground, which causes the spark.

With key on it should have 12v(or 9v), at the "+" on the coil; with key in the Start position it should have 12v.
There are often 2 power sources for the coil, the Run power(key on) and the Start power, engine cranking.
The Run power comes from the key switch, and often runs through a ballast resistor to lower the voltage to 9v, this prevents the coil from overheating while driving.
The Start power comes from the Starter Solenoid, it either will have an "I" post on the solenoid or will be hooked to the starter motor side of the solenoid, this gives the coil the full 12v when cranking for a stronger spark.

The "-" side of the coil is where the points or ignition module is connected(also the tachometer), when this post is grounded(assuming power on the "+") the coil charges the secondary circuit, when ground is removed the secondary coil discharges a low amp high voltage "spark".
On the older systems the points opening and closing did the ground-no ground "firing of the coil"
On newer systems a transistor does this, based on a sensor in the distributor(pointless ignition) or a Crank and/or Cam position sensor(distributorless ignition).

But down to the brass tacks a coil still works the same way, power it then cut power and it sparks.

If you hook up a test light to the ground side of the coil and the "+" on the battery then light should come on and off when engine is cranking, with engine static it may or may not be a ground, depends on the system.
Electronic systems usually have the coil ungrounded when engine is static, this prevents heat up of the coils primary circuit.


I would check the "+" side of the coil to make sure it has power when cranking and with just the key on.
 
Last edited:
has all new wires on it and new coil doing the ignition mod now
 
Its alive for anyone reading this in the future it was the ignition module
 
Thanks for the follow up . I'll use your fix on the next "help, my Ranger won't start" post :D
 

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