NAPA return/exchange policy?

[Shran]

I need some advice...

I'm currently replacing the high pressure fuel pump in my '86 Ranger. Got the new pump, got the old one out, etc. While I was putting the wiring harness connectors onto the new pump, I broke off one of the studs that the positive wire connects to. Do you think NAPA will let me exchange it? It does come with a warranty...just hoping I don't have to spend another $115 on another pump.

Thanks.

 

[chico4554]

yea they should, around here they are pretty good with returns

 

[Shran]

Good deal... you think I should just be honest about what happened or just say it came broken?

 

[Defective]

NAPA will not accept returns on items of electrical nature if they have been hooked up.

Doesn't sound like you managed to hook it up to me.

I would just walk in there tell them how it happened and claim that the connector looked suspect before you tried to connect to it.

 

[spdcrazy]

i have worked at two different napas. and they can do almost anything they want. if ya find a guy that gives ya shit, take it to another napa. they should just give you a new one. and take ur old one and ship it back to the DC as defective.. just have it real clean.


or just tell them it was broke and they will do the same.\

good luck

 

[mhughes165]

the napa by me are real tight asses and arent corporate napa so the dont return ANYTHING, no returns on anything electrical and fuel, and all other returns suffer a 20% restocking fee

 

[spdcrazy]

the napa by me are real tight asses and arent corporate napa so the dont return ANYTHING, no returns on anything electrical and fuel, and all other returns suffer a 20% restocking fee

ouch... when did customer service get outlawed? when i was on the counter, if i could do anything to help the customer i would do it. the first napa was independent and the second was corporate. and we never had a 20% restocking fee. maybe if somone returned a large item worth lots of money, that we had o ship over from vegas or something. but that wouldn't happen often. and not to a fuel pump.

 

[mhughes165]

they do it for anything, its a 30% restocking fee for tools aswell......its freakin retarded as hell

 

[mudnsnow]

I've neverheard of this restocking fees at any Napa. We take like 80% of our parts a the local NAPA store and we have 0 complaints about their return/exchange policy. If the part have no sigh of abuse they will certainly give you another ones. The only time i remember they didn't want to waranty a parts it's cuz of abuse. Like the clutch on ricer......

 

[almostclueless]

I wouldn't expect any business to replace an item I was installing and broke.....so I'm careful.

 

[Shran]

Well I took it back today and said it "was broken." They just kinda looked it over and gave me a new pump. Took one hell of a load off my mind!

If you guys don't mind giving me a little more help in a technical sense I have a couple questions:

I'm trying to get my '86 running. It's a 4x4 standard cab (dual tank) with a 2.9/manual trans. A friend of mine hit a Suburban with it and evidently that pooched the fuel pump(s).

I have replaced the high pressure pump, the fuel filter, the pump relay, and checked the inertia switch. All test OK. Front tank doesn't have much gas in it, rear tank has about 1/4 tank. Battery is good.

My problem is that I'm hardly getting any pressure at the fuel rail. If I blow air through the return line (blue one/passenger side of the tank, right?) on the rear tank, I get gas out of the supply line right at the FPR, so the lines aren't plugged. However, when I ground out the high pressure pump with a gauge on the fuel rail (all lines connected,) I'll get somewhere between 0 and 15 PSI. The pressure also rises very slowly. Testing the pressure in my '88 2.9 yields almost instant 40 PSI. After the pressure gets up to about 15 PSI the truck will start and idle for a few seconds before starving for fuel and then stalls.

This indicates to me that the pump in the rear tank isn't working, or something else. Maybe the tank check valves? the grommets in both aren't great, but don't leak unless I blow quite a bit of air into the tank with an air compressor.

Voltage at the tank pump will jump up to about 6 volts and then drop down to around zero, every time, in about 5 seconds. According to Chilton's it should stay steady around battery voltage. I don't really want to mess with the wiring harness and am considering just putting the pump on a toggle switch in the cab.

Any suggestions/comments? If my ideas are crap let me know. Also keep in mind for the toggle switch idea that inertia swtich safety thing isn't my first concern...this thing is going to be trail driven only, very rarely in town and probably never on the highway.

 

[86XLT]

there are 2 pump relays have you checked both? they are side by side.i've had more problems with connectors. also check body grounds 4 i think

 

[94 lngbd]

not sure for that year of ranger, but what about an emergency cut off switch for the fuel pump. The newer rangers have them

 

[Shran]

there are 2 pump relays have you checked both? they are side by side.i've had more problems with connectors. also check body grounds 4 i think

I'll check both tonight. I've only replaced one relay so far, didn't know there are two.

Emergency cutoff checks out OK.

 

[mhughes165]

there are not 2 pump relay, there is a fuel pump relay and a ecm relay, both being gone will cause fuel pumps not to work or for it just not to run, always replace them in pairs if u dont know how to tell if there bad or not