My truck SUCKS!

[Chevelle Kid]

Ok, I have an issue with I think the ECU. I'm not getting power to the fuel pump with the relay connected, to see if it was the relay or the pump I jumped a wire and got the pump working. I tried to start it with the pump running, no good, I have spark and the pumps are running but she still won't start. Now, one of my friends who is a bus mechanic took a look and said he thinks the injectors aren't pulsing. I don't know what this means as this is my first fuel injected vehicle that's having issues (god I love a holley and a coil, not this crap). I'm pretty sure that that would be controlled by the ECU, right?

So, does anybody have a clue? If it helps any I just did a manual swap and 4.0 clutch swap at the same time, maybe something there did anything?

Ben

 

[Chevelle Kid]

bump

 

[IMenriched]

might be a pick up coil under the distributor cap

 

[Pat Kunz]

You said you have spark, is this at the coil or plugs. If you only checked it at the coil, check it at a plug to make sure nothing happened inside the cap. To determine for sure you are dealing with a fuel problem you can try running the engine on carb cleaner, simply remove the air intake hose hold the throttle open and give it a small squirt. It should start and die. If you have someone else crank it while you do this you can keep it running on carb cleaner this way. If it is a fuel problem you want to check two things to start with, one, do you have adequate fuel pressure and two, do you have power to your injectors. Key on, you should have 12v to one side of the injector harness, the ecm will toggle the ground. If it's a loss of toggle that you have my first guess would be the TFI module not sending an RPM signal to the ecm, ecm doesn't see any rpm you won't get any toggle.

Cheers
Pat Kunz

 

[nooberiffic]

Pat Kunz, of Kunz Korner?

 

[IMenriched]

You said you have spark, is this at the coil or plugs. If you only checked it at the coil, check it at a plug to make sure nothing happened inside the cap. To determine for sure you are dealing with a fuel problem you can try running the engine on carb cleaner, simply remove the air intake hose hold the throttle open and give it a small squirt. It should start and die. If you have someone else crank it while you do this you can keep it running on carb cleaner this way. If it is a fuel problem you want to check two things to start with, one, do you have adequate fuel pressure and two, do you have power to your injectors. Key on, you should have 12v to one side of the injector harness, the ecm will toggle the ground. If it's a loss of toggle that you have my first guess would be the TFI module not sending an RPM signal to the ecm, ecm doesn't see any rpm you won't get any toggle.

Cheers
Pat Kunz

+1 to this

also when doing the clutch....make sure you didn't get a wire pinched between the bellhousing and the block, when going back to gether.

 

[Pat Kunz]

Pat Kunz, of Kunz Korner?

The same, but that was long ago and probably forgot about half of that stuff now. Just got another Ranger for the wife so I joined up. I'll help out where I can:


Pat Kunz

 

[nooberiffic]

damn man, when I got my ranger and was searching online, one of the first things I found was your tech page.

 

[Chevelle Kid]

Ok, I have spark to the plugs. She'll run on starting fluid for a second, then die. I do have 3 hit wires to the fuel pump relay, even though the diagram says there should only be 2. One of the hot wires sholuld ground out but it's hot... How the hell does this happen???

LOL

And what does the TFI module look like and where might it be?

Thanks

Ben

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Ok, I have spark to the plugs. She'll run on starting fluid for a second, then die. I do have 3 hit wires to the fuel pump relay, even though the diagram says there should only be 2. One of the hot wires sholuld ground out but it's hot... How the hell does this happen???

LOL

And what does the TFI module look like and where might it be?

Thanks

Ben

TFI should be on the back side of the distributor, a rectangular boxy thing with like a 6 point plug?

And I bet something my have fried in the switch and jumped the ground to the hot wire somewhere inside the switch... or its like tripped on?

 

[Chevelle Kid]

TFI should be on the back side of the distributor, a rectangular boxy thing with like a 6 point plug?

And I bet something my have fried in the switch and jumped the ground to the hot wire somewhere inside the switch... or its like tripped on?

The book says I should have 2 hot wires. One that's hot constantly, and one that's hot with the key turned on. I have both of those but I have one that the book says should be a ground giving me power. I'm reading this from the plug going into the fuel pump relay without the relay plugged in.

And the TFI is part of the distributor? It looks cast in.

Ben

 

[Chevelle Kid]

And also, which switch are you talking about?


Ben

 

[BillupsOMally]

The TFI isn't cast in, although it does look like it might be, it has 2 bolts holding it in on the back of the distributor.
I can't remember the size off-hand, 7/32" maybe. There isn't enough room for a standard socket to fit, so you either need a thin-wall socket (like from Snap-On), or do like I did and grind a standard socket thinner.
Supposedly there's a special TFI removal tool, but when I asked at the local Ford dealership about it the guy just stared at me like I was speaking Russian, so I don't know.

Once you have the bolts out, slide the TFI DOWN the distributor to unplug it.

 

[holyford86]

TFI wrenches are available from pretty much any auto parts store for around 5 bucks

 

[Original_Ranger84]

And also, which switch are you talking about?


Ben

Fuel pump switch or fuel inertia switch or something like that. i will stop the pumps i believe... all you need to do is reset it. Unless 2.9ls don't have em?

Check your owners manual for the location on it if it has one.