My truck shuts off while driving

[Keifeer1234]

Hello I am new to this so please bare with me lol. I have a 1993 2 wheel drive 3.0 v6 ranger that will just randomly shut off while driving. While I'm driving it will start to sputter and the it will just turn off. All the electronics will stay on but the engine with just die. Then when you go to start it it back up the engine will crank but not turn all the way over. I have changed the fuel pump and I have changed the fuel pump sending unit connector. Can anyone help me?
Thank you
Keifer

 

[chewy012]

Have you happened to notice if it does this roughly-exactly when you lift your foot off the pedal?

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[chewy012]

You may have an air bubble trapped in the fuel line, and wen the engine heats up, this bubble expands, and also, allows fuel to vaporize in the line. This would typically happen when you lift your foot, which increases engine vacuum, which lowers fuel pressure allowing it to vaporize easier. Though it is not always only when you lift, this is just a good indicator.

I fought with this all last summer. Easiest way to fix is to jack the front of the truck up, bleed off the fuel pressure, then toggle the key on for 2 seconds, off, on, off, you hit the bleeder valve, key on, off, on, off, bleed 'er. Repeat that a hand full of times and that should do it.

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[55trucker]

Then when you go to start it it back up the engine will crank but not turn all the way over. I have changed the fuel pump and I have changed the fuel pump sending unit connector. Can anyone help me?
Thank you
Keifer

Could you define.....*all the way over*?.......the engine quits on you...... you try to restart but you get....just continuously cranks?...or the engine will not crank more than one revolution.....

how long do you have to let the engine sit before it DOES crank & fire & when the engine DOES fire up again is the problem immediately there or not at all?

try not to let yourself get caught up in the * throw money at the problem * to repair it...you need to diagnose the situation..is it fuel....or is it ignition.. a combination of both? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Do you have a digital multimeter?

A scanner would be of asset too

 

[Keifeer1234]

So I took a look at the truck today and I bleeded the fuel line and all and took it for a drive and the engine died within 20 minutes again. I notice that it does it when the engine gets hot because when I drive it in the morning it would be fine until the engine gets warmed up. It dies when my foot is on the gas and when I take my foot off the gas, it would also do it when I'm just sitting at an idle. And when you go to start it back up it will either just chrank and crank but not turn over or it will turn over and then die again 2 minutes later but if I let it sit for a little bit it will start right up and drive for about another 20 minutes or so till it does again.
Thank you
Keifer

 

[55trucker]

It's not necessary to *bleed* the fuel system, it is self bleeding.

Without a fuel pressure gauge in hand you're sort of shooting in the dark trying to diagnose the system. The pressure should be in the 60lbs. area, Your truck should not have the returnless fuel system where the regulator is in the fuel tank, '93 I don't believe it does. Generally when they fail the pressure goes up and fuel leaks into the intake system.

Your problem is intermittent, so in my opinion its not a mechanical problem such as the pump itself. Sounds as tho it may be thermal related, could be a wiring condition at a junction point, poor corroded connection.

On the offhand take a look at the MAF, it could be the source of your problem if its on the way out.

 

[chewy012]

This sounds exactly like what mine would do. I ended up replacing all the sensors. Still had the problem. So far the only thing that helped the problem was a really good fuel rail bleed. I agree with 55 trucker in that it should be self bleeding but, so far that's what helped me.

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[Keifeer1234]

Chewy02 how do I do a fuel rail bleed. I'll try that when I get home.

 

[chewy012]

There should be a schrader valve on the fuel rail, passenger side I believe, mine's 4.0L, the 3.0L may be different. Schrader valve is the same type of valve that's on your tires. Jack the front end up to give a nice high point vent, and push the center pin of the valve with a Phillip's screw driver. The go jog the key on and off a few times, hit the valve again. Do this 3 or so times.

Do it when the engine is cold also.

You should get an empty can or cup to catch the fuel as it sprays out or you'll douche your engine bay with gas which could cause a fire.

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[Pauls 4x4]

Sounds like a bad ignition coil, fuel pump relay, or a sensor. Warms up and goes to closed loop than faults, stalls... cools down and OK or an electric part that warms up and opens, then cools down and closes.

I'd check 4 codes & check for spark when it stalls and just keeps turning. Spark or fuel.


If you did have air in the system causing this the fuel system has a big leak sucking it in... but for less than the price of the fuel pump, a few sensors randomly swapped, you could pay to get the answer maybe $60?

 

[chewy012]

^ +1 on Paul's 4x4, the sensors on these rigs are really not expensive. I threw parts at my problem first and then it dawned on me to check for air bubbles. I suggested that first cause it's free.

The start up and die once warm though does make more sense to be a problem going from cold to hot. In contrast, my problem showed the dame symptoms, but only after running on the highway for an hour plus on hot days.



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