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My truck hates me... and what is the magic step?


Permatex® Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE
Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant
Permatex® Super High Tack™ Gasket Sealant
Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket

Which of these should I be making use of on this water pump gasket? From reading the Permatex website, looks like I could use either the threadlocker blue or thread sealant on the bolts, and probably the gasket sealant on the paper gasket. Thoughts?

As for the heads... they were just tested at the machine shop. The chance they are warped or cracked, is probably on the order of 0.01%. It is not likely that the head gasket is bad either, since it is brand new, and I followed the proper procedure to install everything. What is apparent, however, is that I can't hold a water pump gasket. Now, the gasket on the pump was NOT BLOWN before I started messing with it. In all likelyhood, it would appear I AM FUCKING IT UP. So please, HELP ME GET THIS DAMN WATER PUMP GASKET ON PROPERLY. Once that is addressed, and if I still have problems, I'll look at other things.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the posts, but I don't really need posts about my heads and head gaskets, when they are brand new! There is no sign of water in the oil. The coolant that was dumping out the side of the engine, is no longer leaking there. That tells me the head gasket was the cause of that problem. The truck isn't showing signs of oil in the water either.

For now, I REALLY just want to get this water pump on properly. That is all. Once accomplished, I can look at other things. And it is not the factory radiator cap. I have a Stant pressure release type cap on there, that is only about 2 years old. I realize it COULD be bad, but again, everything is pointing to me being a dumbass when putting the water pump on.
 
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A leakdown test can substitute for a compression test, but not the other way around. It's a (much) more sensitive test. Uncalibrated leakdown can be used in concert with compression (it can't test rings, but can test everything else).

Having said that, I think a simple pressure test is in order. You can buy a $25 mechanical oil pressure gauge, and put the sender (temporarily) in place of the temperature gauge. Replace the rad cap and see if the problem goes away. Alternatively, take a sample of coolant into a shop for exhaust gas analysis (or you can buy chemical kits for this). Exhaust gasses in the coolant confirm a blown water jacket. If the vehicle is in the shop, a smog sniffer can be held over the rad neck while idling.

The truck just passed emissions recently, within the last month, before I replaced the head gaskets. I don't know if they test anything of relavence in regards to this, but I was no where even close to failing on anything they tested. I'll have to check into the oil pressure gauge, as harbor freight probably has one dirt cheap to use(I just checked, $10 for one there, and they are 5 minutes from my house).
 
I really doubt emissions tested your coolant.

Though burning coolant would be fairly likely to disturb emissions eventually, it may not right away unless it's really bad.
 
Well, i'd say "welcome to the club"...seems like everything I fix I end up with two things broken...but it's probably just a coincidence that these things happen in succession like that...
aint that the truth, my 89 is haveing thing after thing break

I fixed the rig up in the middle of the woods one time By yelling "IM GOONA SCRAP YOU, BITCH" It started right up an ran perfect for the entire summer
might be sumthin to try.

sounds all too familer:blush:
 
Put the water pump back on last night, used nothing but the paper gasket (after all, that is how it comes from the factory), and some blue thread locker on all the bolts. So far, so good. No sign of any leaks, and all seems to be normal. I was also sure to chase all the threads on the bolts and holes, to make sure they were clean and free of crap, something I hadn't done previously.
 
That's good to hear...always helps to clean the bolts too...hope it holds up for you...
 

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