Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and maussimo010
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2008
- Messages
- 2
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Transmission
- Manual
I have not been here in a LONG while, but I am coming here for help to maybe get some ideas on a problem I am having:
ok, here we go...
the vehicle:
1994 2.3 Ranger with aftermarket a/c
WAS running a generic 1500CFM elec. fan on a manual switch, but
decided to go with the Taurus s-speed fan last weekend (fan was from a 1995 Taurus Wagon), the 2000CFM low/4000CFM high (CFMs correct?)
I found the donor fan at a salvage yard, along with a relay box with a 20amp relay and a 40amp relay, labeled 20AR and 40 AR, respectively.
That relay box plugged into the fan directly, then had another relay behind it, that is in a socket with a clear plastic cover on it, which i believe is a 30amp.
I purchased an electronic thermostatic relay kit from Advanced Auto Parts. it has the relay, the control box, and a potentiometer for adjusting between 160 and 210 degrees. According to the back of the back, the model I purchased is rated at 30 amps
here is a link to it:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=600&PTSet=A
the install went fine, here is where i connected my wires:
from relay box:
orange wire:fan low
blue wire: fan high
red wire: constant to battery
thin yellow wire: ignition, hooked it to the 60amp fuse in the fuse panel in the engine bay.
thin green wire: used a tap and ran it to the hot side of the a/c to tell the fan to kick on when the a/c is turned on.
thin black wire: ground to chassis
other black wire: ground to fan harness negative.
I DID NOT use the 20/40 amp relay box with the new setup, i figured the relay that was already in line with the fan in the harness i left on was fine.
This setup worked over last weekend, and all through the week, back and forth to school, bout 15 miles each way, city driving and highway driving both.
TODAY, the truck was running hot, but was ok cause it was a cool day in Tampa, so after i got home, I checked the system out, and the fan was not kicking on, high or low speed. checked the fan itself, straight to battery, works fine. checked to see if ti was getting power, it was.
turns out that the box that the relay plugs into, that the rest of the wires come out of, that has the potentiometer on it to adjust the temperature, more or less melted, and was causing the relay to not close and kick on the fan.
My suspicion is that:
A. this fan is a monster, and draws a lot of amps,
B. I wired something wrong (how i don't know; it was all pretty self-explanatory)
C. I SHOULD have used the 20/40 relay box (i still have it), but even it it is rated at 40amps, that's still higher than the 30amps my relay box is rated at, right?
D. all of the above.
Advanced Auto already replaced the kit, gave me a whole new packaged one with new relay, relay box, wires, etc...I do not want to wire it in until I find out what happened, so it does NOT happen again...
let me know if anyone needs pictures of parts or anything like that, will post them asap as needed!
any comments? thoughts? suggestions?
thanks a lot for any input!
Scott
ok, here we go...
the vehicle:
1994 2.3 Ranger with aftermarket a/c
WAS running a generic 1500CFM elec. fan on a manual switch, but
decided to go with the Taurus s-speed fan last weekend (fan was from a 1995 Taurus Wagon), the 2000CFM low/4000CFM high (CFMs correct?)
I found the donor fan at a salvage yard, along with a relay box with a 20amp relay and a 40amp relay, labeled 20AR and 40 AR, respectively.
That relay box plugged into the fan directly, then had another relay behind it, that is in a socket with a clear plastic cover on it, which i believe is a 30amp.
I purchased an electronic thermostatic relay kit from Advanced Auto Parts. it has the relay, the control box, and a potentiometer for adjusting between 160 and 210 degrees. According to the back of the back, the model I purchased is rated at 30 amps
here is a link to it:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=600&PTSet=A
the install went fine, here is where i connected my wires:
from relay box:
orange wire:fan low
blue wire: fan high
red wire: constant to battery
thin yellow wire: ignition, hooked it to the 60amp fuse in the fuse panel in the engine bay.
thin green wire: used a tap and ran it to the hot side of the a/c to tell the fan to kick on when the a/c is turned on.
thin black wire: ground to chassis
other black wire: ground to fan harness negative.
I DID NOT use the 20/40 amp relay box with the new setup, i figured the relay that was already in line with the fan in the harness i left on was fine.
This setup worked over last weekend, and all through the week, back and forth to school, bout 15 miles each way, city driving and highway driving both.
TODAY, the truck was running hot, but was ok cause it was a cool day in Tampa, so after i got home, I checked the system out, and the fan was not kicking on, high or low speed. checked the fan itself, straight to battery, works fine. checked to see if ti was getting power, it was.
turns out that the box that the relay plugs into, that the rest of the wires come out of, that has the potentiometer on it to adjust the temperature, more or less melted, and was causing the relay to not close and kick on the fan.
My suspicion is that:
A. this fan is a monster, and draws a lot of amps,
B. I wired something wrong (how i don't know; it was all pretty self-explanatory)
C. I SHOULD have used the 20/40 relay box (i still have it), but even it it is rated at 40amps, that's still higher than the 30amps my relay box is rated at, right?
D. all of the above.
Advanced Auto already replaced the kit, gave me a whole new packaged one with new relay, relay box, wires, etc...I do not want to wire it in until I find out what happened, so it does NOT happen again...
let me know if anyone needs pictures of parts or anything like that, will post them asap as needed!
any comments? thoughts? suggestions?
thanks a lot for any input!
Scott
