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My rebuild of my new 84 Ranger 302


Ok 2 things here

1. I exchanged the Summit racing pump for a Carter High Performance fuel pump. Much better and quieter pump

2. If you changed rear end gears to a 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10 then you will need a ford type3 23 teeth drive gear to put on your speedometer cable to get your speed right on the speedo gauge. The type3 fits all fords transmission but top loaders.
 
cool! Are you sure the gear is for all those ratios? seems it would be off by quite a bit at 60 mph if you had 355 or 410 gears, and 373 would be pretty close. I don't know though.
 
cool! Are you sure the gear is for all those ratios? seems it would be off by quite a bit at 60 mph if you had 355 or 410 gears, and 373 would be pretty close. I don't know though.

Yes its the right gear for all those ratios. I used this ratio gear calculator and bought 3 different drive gears and none was the correct. Then I went to CJ Pony website and this the right gear for them. I bought it and test it with my GPS now i'm 2-4 mph off instead of 15-20 mph off
 
Cool. I will have to remember that.
 
78 fmx transmission out of a cougar

I have a perfect working fmx transmission. It's still in my 84 ranger with a 306. So i can see that it shift perfect and rides smooth. I'm putting a c4 for drag racing in my ranger asap pm me or text me 2293928163 jim
 
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Just wondering something.

With running an electric pump, did you circuit in an inertia switch to kill power in a screw up?
 
Just wondering something.

With running an electric pump, did you circuit in an inertia switch to kill power in a screw up?

No I don't an inertia switch because why pay $100 for that switch. I just bought a dimmer switch for a old mustang and wired the pump to that. So I kill the power to the pump anytime with my foot. The dimmer switch is only $6-8 
 
No I don't an inertia switch because why pay $100 for that switch.


just go to a pick n pull, grab one from a FI ranger and pocket it... wont cost a nickle.

but on the other reason i asked, with your problem of it shutting down (the pump) was thinking maybe a faulty switch.

cheers
 
No I don't an inertia switch because why pay $100 for that switch.


just go to a pick n pull, grab one from a FI ranger and pocket it... wont cost a nickle.

but on the other reason i asked, with your problem of it shutting down (the pump) was thinking maybe a faulty switch.

cheers

no it was the summit brand pump, they have points in them and they burn up just like points in an old school distributor. I switch it for a Carter P4600HP pump and it's a rotary vane pump and has not points to burn up also its Made in USA. Works great
 
I had to get another C4 trans because the one I gotten before was rebuilt but they never put fluid in it and it seized up before I could put it in my truck. I'm gonna install the 2500 stall converter with the tranny, so it should help my 60ft time. By the way most of you don't know that I am disabled I was born with Cerebral Palsy, but I don't let it slow me down.:icon_twisted::yahoo::headbang:
0526161049_zpsrl0p54kg.jpg
 
well run into a problem. I don't have enough clearance to pull the tranny between the firewall and the torsion bars crossmember. My friend wants to cut about 18in section out of the crossmember. But I'm thinking why not unbolted it and popped the rivets out and unbolted the torsion bars and put new bushings on the torsion bars while we have it off when we are swapping the transmission. Any thoughts?
 
Hey bud, not sure how u going about getting the trans out but I've done it quite a few times with just my 2 ton floor jack. What I did was drop the trans member n kinda hold the tail shaft balancing the the trans by the pan, on the jack. From there I have to jack it up n down n wiggle it while pulling/rolling the jack back. I also do this with the truck as high on stands as I can get it but that will get it past that torsion member. Oh, and I say yes to new bushings...it's on my list while I'm down too. Haha. Good luck brotha and it's cool to know u don't let shit slow you down my friend.
 
Hey bud, not sure how u going about getting the trans out but I've done it quite a few times with just my 2 ton floor jack. What I did was drop the trans member n kinda hold the tail shaft balancing the the trans by the pan, on the jack. From there I have to jack it up n down n wiggle it while pulling/rolling the jack back. I also do this with the truck as high on stands as I can get it but that will get it past that torsion member. Oh, and I say yes to new bushings...it's on my list while I'm down too. Haha. Good luck brotha and it's cool to know u don't let shit slow you down my friend.

Thanks brother, I knew that I could count on you to respond. It look to me that it would clear. But my friend measured the bellhousing and the height of the difference between the member and firewall it's maybe 3/4 smaller than the bellhousing. He doesn't want do it unless we have a backup plan to get it done.
 
Thanks brother, I knew that I could count on you to respond. It look to me that it would clear. But my friend measured the bellhousing and the height of the difference between the member and firewall it's maybe 3/4 smaller than the bellhousing. He doesn't want do it unless we have a backup plan to get it done.
No problem mang. If u need, u might be able to reference pics in my thread so u can see where I placed the stands so they are clear for the jack to get where it needs to move. U will have to wiggle the tail shaft alil once u get it sitting on n clear of the tors member. Then lower it as u move back. If u need anything on that hit me up via pm. I'll send ya txt n pics since my shits about to be on stands later on.
 
Finally got to work on putting the C4 with a 2500 stall torque converter today. the torsion bars crossmember was in my way of removing the fat pig FMX transmission
fat%20crossmeber_zpsptxmkw5u.jpg

so we start cutting it out
fat%20cutting_zpsjgufdtya.jpg

now it is out of the way the tranny can be dropped
fat%20pig_zpswg7heexx.jpg

fat pig is out.
fat%20fmx_zpsmygqnpb3.jpg

now I had a plate made out of 1/4 thick steel for the new brace for the crossmember and the C4 is installed
fat%20plate_zpsplvhyabd.jpg

here is another view of the crossmember
fat%20skinny_zpsrh8n7kmf.jpg

OH YEAH I FORGOT THE STUPID YOKE FOR THE FMX IS TO FAT FOR THE C4 NOW HAVE TO HUNT A C4 YOKE
 
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