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my ranger is weird


redneckfordranger1986

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
178
Age
38
City
Hermann, Mo
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Automatic
First of all I hope I'm not reposting this ... I got a 86 ranger with a rebuilt 2.9 jasper motor 4x4 auto . I keep having fuel issues . I replaced the pumps honestly i don't remember and the filters and the fuel regulator . the only thing I haven't replaced is the injectors . I checked the pressure I'm at 30 psi primed and between 28 to 31 psi running when it wants to start ... the other day i took it out for a ride and lost all fuel pressure i have let it sit since i had it towed home and as of this morning it turned over like no problem . this is very annoying :icon_confused any ideas ? :icon_confused::annoyed:
 
Sounds like a wiring issue.
 
You fixed it? Great :D
 
I would also replace the Fuel Pump relay, these are known issues in the Ranger/BII series.

The computer turns the Fuel pumps on and off using this relay, relay can fail out right so engine stops and won't start again, but more common is an intermittent problem.


On the '86 there should be 3 relays on the passenger side fender/wheel well.
green base is the fuel pump relay, Brown is the EEC(computer) relay, 3rd I think is Black, it is the Wide Open Throttle(WOT) relay.

The EEC relay powers computer but also injectors, ignition system, and Fuel Pump Relay.

Check the wiring and connectors on all 3 relays.
 
Last edited:
the relay has been replaced .. the air leak didn't really help with my problem I drove it today started to cut out but didn't die .... :annoyed:
 
So just to be clear on the issue, when it stalls or will not start the fuel pressure shows 0.

If you spray starting Fluid into the intake will it fire up and then die?
So spark is working but no fuel
 
I replaced the fuel relay but not the others . I didn't fully read your post I replaced two air lines that were either leaking or I didn't like how the looked .. if it's under normal driving doesn't have a problem but if I shove my foot to the floor it hesitatesand acts like it's gonna die but doesn't idles at about 800 rpms
 
800 rpm idle still sounds a bit high for warmed up engine.
After engine warms up unplug the IAC(idle air control) Valve on the upper intake, idle should drop down and engine may stall, that's OK, it means computer is setting the 800 rpm idle speed, not a vacuum leak.
If idle doesn't change that means there is probably another vacuum leak somewhere.
Computer has closed the IAC valve as far as it can but air leak is not allowing rpm to go down further.
On some throttles there is also a set screw for minimum idle, someone may have adjusted it to set a higher idle instead of finding out why it was stalling at idle, if it has a set screw adjust it to lower the idle to 600 rpm, then reconnect IAC
 
I replaced the eec relay and wide open throttle relay and drove it 10 miles and it didn't act up but that is my part to replace.
 

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