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My Ranger II


lol, I have the 88 Ranger 2 piece, the 93 Explorer front and rear, and the 75 Mustang II drive shaft, for some reason I can't seem to get rid of them.

Robert



Sent with a my little pony, and a hiccup.
 
Just remember, it's cheaper to shorten a shaft then lengthen one.

I would see if a local shop can mix and match the ends to make a shaft you need.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
If I can find a one piece at Pull-A-Part, it will cost less then 30.00, and then all I have to do is remember what it came out of.



Robert



sent with a GPS, and a 12x6 propeller.
 
Thanks, it's ONLY took me 3 years to get this far, this is what happens when you have no budget.



Robert



sent with a SSI card, and medicaid.
 
Small Update, the Rad is in, and bolted up, small cutting on the support, and, also I was going to try and run air conditioning, well it looks like that is not going to happen, unless there is enough room from the rad support to the grill.

also I forgot to take a picture of the trans mount that I made, but it will be coming off to finish welding, I had to move the trans mounting plate 6" forward to make it work, and I'm using the ugly wrap around factory mount.

some pictures of the rad in, I'm also going to have to find a very shallow fan to use.

also, for some reason I can't find my lower rad hose, it must have been inside the mustang when I hauled it to the scrapper.





and yes, the engine is going to have to move down at least two inches, I just don't like the way it sits right now.



posted with a blue dress, and a chow pup.
 
That rad on top of the engine is a 4.0, it almost worked, but it was too close to the engine.

the one in the truck is the 75 mustang.

The bottom frame brace will also have to be removed, it is way to close to the bottom of the rad, I'm going to make one from a piece of dom tubing and some flat plate I have.

Robert

Here is my OLD thread from when I first started on this truck http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95330

posted with a Huma, and bluebell.
 
Last edited:
If the rad from the 75 kept the 302 cool ( since it was the factory one i assume) then you should be fine.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Well, it's a good thing I didn't try and lower the engine the way I wanted, I got my power steering pump mounted, and well, there is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from it to the steering box.

also found out my cab mount brackets on the driver side are rotted out, so those will get cut out and a piece of 1/8 inch flat plate welded, I'm going to check the passenger side in a couple of days.

I'll post in a few days, I'm tired right now, and it's raining, suppose to rain all week here.


Robert



sent with a case of the runs, and a farmhouse chicken salad.
 
One thing I had close tolerance on was my return line to my power steering pump from the box. Now that I think about it my engine has settled a bit I need to check that to be sure it's not getting pitched off. I may need to loosen the motor mount bolts, lift the engine up a bit then find a way to keep it from dropping down again since I made the slots for the mints a bit long.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
I have a 1/4 inch spacer in between the mount and plate that I made to raise it up a little.



Robert



sent with a weather woman, and a backhoe.
 
Last edited:
Right after my swap the drain plug wasn't touching the engine xmember ttb mount then by the first oil change it was just touching and now that I have the mount cut out of the way, it sits below it now. If it continues to drop down, there's a chance that the oil pan may touch the xmember. But on the plus side, it will allow me to be able to run a carb spacer and/or a taller air cleaner. And my shifter lever doesn't smack the dash as much when I go into first or third gear.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Pictures of the Power steering pump installed, and also a rotted cab mount, come to find out, both side of the driver side are rotten, but I have some free plate to fix them with, I'll be checking the passenger side also, I suspect they will also be rotten, also this means I have to order a new set of body mount rubber.

on to the pictures.





and the driver side front mount.

 
OK, small update, got the body mounts on the driver side fixed, both front and back, now I have to do the passenger side, they both are rotten.

pictures






also, I want Air Conditioning, so that lead to a bit of a problem, wasn't a problem with the air box, that was a easy fix, the biggest problem, and I though this was going to cost me a bunch of money, turn out to also be a easy fix, I was at Pull-A-Part and just happen to see a E-150 with a 5.0 and C4, well, you can see what I did.

pictures
tight fit to use a standard dipstick.


here you get the idea of what I did.






and just because





sent with a picture of a iPad and a Oak tree root.
 
Last edited:
as you can see, the tube ends right next to where I put water in, so it's going to make checking the trans fluid easy.



Robert



sent with a penny and a paper doll.
 

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