my honda is sick


Yes, it could be the starter, but it could also be a bad connection, the battery or the alternator. If you tried to jump start the car properly, it is likely to be the starter, but it all needs to be checked.

A friend had a problem like this. I cleaned her battery cables and it fixed the problem.

If the battery went from 12.96V static to 9V under load, either the battery is bad, the alternator is not charging the battery all the way, or the starter is bad. Easiest to test the battery under load. Good battery will hold at 11.6V to 11.8V under load. Find out what the starter draw is. The car will (generally) need about 11.2V to turn the starter. If the starter is bad, it could be needing 13V or more to turn. An alternator should put out 14V-16V when the engine is running. The starter is about $150 aftermarket, because it is a gear reduction starter. Go with a reputable brand, and stay away from Checker/Schucks/Kragen, they buy factory rejects and rebrand them.

In Hondas, the starter is above the transmission, towards the back of the engine on the passenger side of the engine compartment (usually under the air filter/intake manifold). There are 2 mounting bolts (usually 14mm), one hot ground bolt (10mm), and one signal connection. The problem is that there is a boatload of extra hoses, wires, and other things placed above it. You have to move/remove many things just to get to the starter.
 
sometimes true, but not all the time. like alternators.... have you ever looked at one on a chevy 3.4L(monte carlo or sim), you have to take the axles out and everything. sometimes starters are similar, sometimes you need special tools.

Consider the source- a POS chevy... engineered by incompetent dumbasses at best.
 
Consider the source- a POS chevy... engineered by incompetent dumbasses at best.

great minds think alike!(hate chevys). sometimes they get tired of stealing ideas from ford, and try to do something different, like put alternators in wierd places or put thermostats in the intake manifold valley. i think they will soon put lug nuts in the bell housing.:icon_idea:
 
sometimes true, but not all the time. like alternators.... have you ever looked at one on a chevy 3.4L(monte carlo or sim), you have to take the axles out and everything. sometimes starters are similar, sometimes you need special tools.

My Laser was like that, it was tucked around back under the intake. I could squeeze in around the back and changed it by feel, not a fun experiance. But with a small engine compartment they can't have everything out in the open to change easily like the can on a truck.
 
most small cars are easier to drop the engine tranny from the bottom.... if you have access to a lift of course.
 
most small cars are easier to drop the engine tranny from the bottom.... if you have access to a lift of course.

Still, that is alot of work for a stinkin starter. Unless it is like my brother's bug, four bolts a couple elecrical connectors and the engine goes out the bottom with the car on jackstands, exhaust and all. So simple it is almost scary.:shok:
 
you should try the starter on a 59 dodge 2 1/2 ton truck. two bolts hold it in, nothing in the way but you need almost 2ft of extention to get the inside bolt out. oh yeah and it's in january,-10 degrees and parked in a three foot snow bank and you have to dig out and still lay in the godblasted snow freezin your but off. had to do it for my mom cuz her old man was a lazy piece of s**t
 
Yes, it could be the starter, but it could also be a bad connection, the battery or the alternator. If you tried to jump start the car properly, it is likely to be the starter, but it all needs to be checked.

A friend had a problem like this. I cleaned her battery cables and it fixed the problem.

If the battery went from 12.96V static to 9V under load, either the battery is bad, the alternator is not charging the battery all the way, or the starter is bad. Easiest to test the battery under load. Good battery will hold at 11.6V to 11.8V under load. Find out what the starter draw is. The car will (generally) need about 11.2V to turn the starter. If the starter is bad, it could be needing 13V or more to turn. An alternator should put out 14V-16V when the engine is running. The starter is about $150 aftermarket, because it is a gear reduction starter. Go with a reputable brand, and stay away from Checker/Schucks/Kragen, they buy factory rejects and rebrand them.

In Hondas, the starter is above the transmission, towards the back of the engine on the passenger side of the engine compartment (usually under the air filter/intake manifold). There are 2 mounting bolts (usually 14mm), one hot ground bolt (10mm), and one signal connection. The problem is that there is a boatload of extra hoses, wires, and other things placed above it. You have to move/remove many things just to get to the starter.
Yeah its buried under a bunch of hoses. So would a low or defective battery roach a starter? low voltage= arcing ?
 
$184 Reman at Napa. I don't like reman, but new isn't yet available for it it appears. I'd rather use that reman then get screwed.

But the battery is what I would try first. Any auto parts place can load test it.

If they find out it was the battery, or a loose cable, after they have already screwed you on the starter, they aren't going to take off the starter. They'll say it was both.
 
I don't think a defective battery would damage a starter. But if it isn't able to produce enough current to turn the motor, it won't turn the motor. I'm certain I've seen a battery do that; show good voltage but not produce much current.

Plus, it just happened. When a starter goes bad on me, it starts screwing up but still lets you start it after repeated tries. Then it gets worse and worse until you are under the car hammering on it to get the solenoid to throw. Not in every case, but in most. I've had many batteries suddenly die though. Something in the case collapses or something. My wife's old Prius did that while she was at work once and I had to bring a new battery out.
 
I'm still having trouble believing in the dead starter, by the way.
 
$184 Reman at Napa. I don't like reman, but new isn't yet available for it it appears. I'd rather use that reman then get screwed.

But the battery is what I would try first. Any auto parts place can load test it.

If they find out it was the battery, or a loose cable, after they have already screwed you on the starter, they aren't going to take off the starter. They'll say it was both.

I don't think a defective battery would damage a starter. But if it isn't able to produce enough current to turn the motor, it won't turn the motor. I'm certain I've seen a battery do that; show good voltage but not produce much current.

Plus, it just happened. When a starter goes bad on me, it starts screwing up but still lets you start it after repeated tries. Then it gets worse and worse until you are under the car hammering on it to get the solenoid to throw. Not in every case, but in most. I've had many batteries suddenly die though. Something in the case collapses or something. My wife's old Prius did that while she was at work once and I had to bring a new battery out.

I'm still having trouble believing in the dead starter, by the way.
yes yes and yes
I'm a electrician I understand how batteries work.I swear its a plate that has shifted.Honda does have 3 year unlimited warranty on the battery.The reason I know is that I stopped by the dealership that I bought the car from before I went to go pick up the wife.The service rep said that the other dealer will give a load of bs.He he must know how the other dealership works.
 
Did you get it back yet?
 
Got the call today from Honda stealership.After I pitched a fit over the 870 repair estimate.The service rep called the local rep and asked for some type of assistance from HMC.Well the will give me a Honda remanned starter and HMC will pay for half of the labor.So instead of a 870$+ tow to a 450$ repair including the tow.So am I pissed about the breakdown...Fawk ya.Am I happy that I have to fork over 450$ Fawk no.Considering it was at the dealership and it would have cost me more to re-tow it to another facility. I did call my normal mechanic an he quoted me 380$.All I can say is HMC was nice enough to resolve my problem quickly.
Thanks for the input form everyone
 

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