My fuel pump passed away.

[RobbieD]

Nice cat.

Thanks.

That's Toonces.

I don't let him drive much any more; he's gettin' on up there and doesn't see as good as he used to.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Now that I'm home I can attach pictures... the one of the '97 is two 2x4's screwed together to get the right length (didn't have a long one to cut down...) with the engine hoist... the one in my shop with the '90 that one got kinda dumb... I "thought" I would get away without getting the whole bed out of the way then things kept escalating... Now I have two chain hoists on the A frame to keep the jackassery to a minimum... that ratchet strap was kinda janky... oh how I wish I had that much room in the shop right now...

 

[Rum Runner]

Now that I'm home I can attach pictures... the one of the '97 is two 2x4's screwed together to get the right length (didn't have a long one to cut down...) with the engine hoist... the one in my shop with the '90 that one got kinda dumb... I "thought" I would get away without getting the whole bed out of the way then things kept escalating... Now I have two chain hoists on the A frame to keep the jackassery to a minimum... that ratchet strap was kinda janky... oh how I wish I had that much room in the shop right now...

View attachment 133112
View attachment 133113

I envy a man that has a shop like that. Great photos. You guys are inspirational. My '99, your '97 = same color. I am going to try 4 clevis hooks first, then I will try the 2 x 4 method. Seems like the back tires are always in the way. I'm willing to go back to the fuel pumps mounted on the engine. The only special tool you needed was part of a hacksaw blade.

 

[Rum Runner]

Thanks.

That's Toonces.

I don't let him drive much any more; he's gettin' on up there and doesn't see as good as he used to.

Yeah, it's a little hard for them to drive when they lick their paws.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I envy a man that has a shop like that. Great photos. You guys are inspirational. My '99, your '97 = same color. I am going to try 4 clevis hooks first, then I will try the 2 x 4 method. Seems like the back tires are always in the way. I'm willing to go back to the fuel pumps mounted on the engine. The only special tool you needed was part of a hacksaw blade.

In tank pumps cause some problems but there's no vapor lock... there's give and take for everything...

Right now I have a crew cab long bed F350 in the shop plugging everything up waiting for me to make one transmission out of two and do front brakes and it's still a mess from building a loft last winter, still haven't finished fixing the air compressor I got apart in December that I've had the parts for since then...

 

[Rum Runner]

When I was working on my float to get my gas gauge to work I got my brother to help me lift the bed one time another time I had a friend help me.
It's really not that hard.
I used an old fence post to hold the bed up once it was lifted.
I put ratchet straps onto the corners of the front part of the bed, to my door latches to make sure the bed didn't blow over or anything like that.

View attachment 133103

Plenty of room to work under there.

Hopefully the picture will help you understand.

You don't have to unhook your tail lights or anything like that.
The hardest part about it it's breaking the bolts to the bed loose.

P.S.
Don't forget to undo the fill neck to the gas tank.
It's 3 little screws inside the gas door, on my truck.

"The hardest part about it it's breaking the bolts to the bed loose".

For anyone reading this in the future: You will need a Torx T-55 bit that usually comes in 3/8" drive. Days prior to the job douse the 6 bed bolts with PB Blaster, both from the top and underneath the bed. Second choice solvent WD-40. Do it again the day of the job. Some people use a hand held torch to heat the bolts. (I do not). You can tap/jolt the bolts from the top side with a hammer w/o damaging the bed. Go to your Home Depot or plumb shop and have a piece of heavier wall steel pipe cut to use as a cheater bar, at least 18" long. Take a wrench with you to make sure your wrench handle fits inside the pipe. You can even use electrical conduit if it's beefy enough. If the pipe & wrench fit is too loose, wrap it in duct tape.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

"The hardest part about it it's breaking the bolts to the bed loose".

For anyone reading this in the future: You will need a Torx T-55 bit that usually comes in 3/8" drive. Days prior to the job douse the 6 bed bolts with PB Blaster, both from the top and underneath the bed. Second choice solvent WD-40. Do it again the day of the job. Some people use a hand held torch to heat the bolts. (I do not). You can tap/jolt the bolts from the top side with a hammer w/o damaging the bed. Go to your Home Depot or plumb shop and have a piece of heavier wall steel pipe cut to use as a cheater bar, at least 18" long. Take a wrench with you to make sure your wrench handle fits inside the pipe. You can even use electrical conduit if it's beefy enough. If the pipe & wrench fit is too loose, wrap it in duct tape.

Decent advice, but it doesn’t work in the rust belt very well. I’ve broken a number of torx bits and used a wide variety of sprays. PB isn’t that great for rusty stuff, Seafoam DeepCreep, CRC Freeze-Off, or the ol ATF/acetone for a couple days gives you the best chance up here. I also bought some 1/2” drive impact Torx bits. If the impact doesn’t work, I go to an extendable 3/4” drive ratchet or a long breaker bar and cheater pipe. If it doesn’t budge or snap or the clip breaks, then it’s torch or grind the head. WD-40 is a great product but rusty fasteners up here laugh at it.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

All advice above was good advice.
You got this.
Some penetrating spray is a very good idea.

I used to half inch drive T-55 on a battery powered impact.
I had two bolts that didn't want to budge so I used a half inch drive ratchet with my floor jack handle attached as a cheater bar.

What I did was really easy, once the bolts were broke lose.
You just need a little help lifting the bed.
I'm sure it's not out of your pay scale.

It the 6 bed bolts and the 3 little filler neck screws.
Then push the filler neck down and out of the way.

Make sure you have something to hold the bed up handy.
And if you feel you need more safety "like always do" make sure you have something " like ratchet straps " to hold the bed onto whatever you're using to hold it up.

First time you loosen the bedbolts they're going to be really tight. Most likely.
That's going to be the hardest part of the whole job.

Once your bed bolts are loose and your filler neck is out of the way. Lift the bed up.
Then put your brace in place.
Then attach whatever you are using for safety.
If you are using something for safety that is.
Then you can do whatever you need to do with the bed out of your way.

 

[Rum Runner]

If anyone will, please comment on this technique: Removing the rear wheels supporting the truck on jack-stands, slide the bed backwards to access the fuel pump. Video link

After disconnecting the tail light wiring harness, do you need to disconnect the 2 tag light wiring connections? It's hard to see how things all connect up in there.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

In my personal opinion that guy's doing way more work than he needs to.

He's taking the rims and tires off which he doesn't need to.
He's putting the truck on jack stands which he doesn't need to.
He's disconnecting the wiring harness to the tail lights which he doesn't need to.
He's unhooking the tag lights which he doesn't need to.
He's taking the bumper off which once again he doesn't need to.
The big chisel he used to move the
Plastic locking nut on the fuel pump assembly is a matter of choice.
I just used a large flat head screwdriver and tapped it with my hammer.
A little bit of tapping on one side a little bit on the other side, it don't take much to get it to spend freely.

The one thing I didn't mention in my previous post and the guy in the video didn't even mention is the two bed bolts that are closest to the cab are longer than the four that are by the tailgate.
So please remember that.

 

[Blmpkn]

With a name like rum runner.. you oughta be giving that pump a pirates funeral.

Wrap it in a shroud, weight it, go out to sea, say some prayers.. and send her to the depths accompanied by 3 volleys of small arms fire.

Or alternatively...Did Vikings ever run rum?

Viking funerals definitely have the edge over a pirate funeral if you're a bit of a pyro..

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I think Vikings were Scotch drinkers.
Ha, ha, ha!

I don't really know, I just think that's funny.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

If anyone will, please comment on this technique: Removing the rear wheels supporting the truck on jack-stands, slide the bed backwards to access the fuel pump. Video link

After disconnecting the tail light wiring harness, do you need to disconnect the 2 tag light wiring connections? It's hard to see how things all connect up in there.

So, in fairness, I didn’t watch the video… but I’ve done this a few times… ok, a bunch of times…

My lifting procedure varies a little depending on the situation, because I used to just round up a buddy or couple to help move the bed. I’ve had a harder time rounding up help that’s willing and able to lift more recently so I’m looking towards mechanical means to lift the bed from here on.

Pull the gas cap. Take out the three screws holding the filler neck, reach under and pull it down out of the hole in the bed then replace the gas cap.

Behind the bumper will be an 8 pin round electrical plug connecting the bed electrical harness from the chassis electrical harness. Should be pretty obvious when you look at how the harnesses run under there as to what’s what. The bed harness just runs across the bed and connects both taillights. It’s usually a black, round 8-pin plug. There probably won’t be 8 wires to it.

Pull the bed bolts. 6 for most Rangers, but I’ve heard sometime after 01 they went to 8 bolts. If I’m not taking the bed completely off, and I have the help, I take the tailgate off and shift it back so it’s sitting on the rear bumper and the back tires. It’s a squeeze, but I can get in there. When I don’t have help to do that, I tilt it up like Doug did. That’s a little tricky, I’ve had to lift up the back and get it on the bumper to be able to tilt it and that seemed a little sketchy to me but it worked.

I can’t wait until I have my temporary garage up and a lift in it…

 

[Blmpkn]

I think Vikings were Scotch drinkers.
Ha, ha, ha!

I don't really know, I just think that's funny.

Got myself curious enough to actually look it up lol.


Fun fact of the day!


The Vikings were unfortunately stuck with simple rotten (or as they say.. "fermented") libations.... Ale, mead, wine, a brew made of malted barley and honey that was called braggot, and the worst sounding thing of all.. syra. Syra was for the poors.. it was fermented milk

Distilling alcohol didn't end up in Europe until some time in the 1500s.. 500 or so years after the viking age.


Probably for the best to be honest. They really caused quite the ruckus drinking stuff that was sub 10% abv.. if they woulda had scotch or whisky.. woah boy.

 

[Rum Runner]

With a name like rum runner.. you oughta be giving that pump a pirates funeral.

Wrap it in a shroud, weight it, go out to sea, say some prayers.. and send her to the depths accompanied by 3 volleys of small arms fire.

Or alternatively...Did Vikings ever run rum?

Viking funerals definitely have the edge over a pirate funeral if you're a bit of a pyro..

I'm scared of water so I'll just throw it in the dumpster.