Must wait 10 minutes after stall

[pjwhitney84]

So... I've only had the truck for a few weeks now, and I've done this 3 times now. Once putting it on ramps, the other two times were on a hill at a stop light.

What happens is, now getting re-acquainted with driving a manual, I've stalled it by not giving it enough throttle. No big deal, right?

Well... every time I've stalled it like that, the truck won't start again, unless I leave it for 10 minutes or so. Another thing to keep in mind is the truck had only been running for a few minutes each time this happened, so I'm assuming the truck is still in its 'cold running' state.

I'm smelling a strong odor of gas when it is in this 'no start' state, but that is after cranking it 3-4 times before going "Oh man, its doing it again"

Otherwise, the truck runs GREAT!

Any ideas? My gut is telling me that the mixture is too rich and this is why it isn't starting, but after sitting for a few minutes, the mixture in the chambers dissipates, and it then starts like a charm. My problem is, I cannot figure what would be failing in the system which would cause the mixture to be too rich? leaky injectors? Bad sensor of some sort (MAP)? I'm now wishing it was carbureted (ok, maybe I don't wish that) 'cause a pen in the butterfly would confirm or deny my theory

It is a 94 Ranger 2WD, 5 speed manual, 6 cyl, 3.0 EFI.

Thanks,
-P

 

[mudnsnow]

Have you try to start it with the throttle in the floor. (GM cars don't pulse the injector if you try to start the feet to the foor) maybe Ford do the same?????

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

ford does indeed do that.

and i agree that it sounds like the truck is getting flooded during the stall and/or subsequent cranking. flooring the gas while cranking should clear the cylinders out and allow the truck to start right back up.

 

[pjwhitney84]

That worked perfectly!!!!

With the new info of how to get the injectors not to pulse, I had to make it stall today So, I first tried to get it to start without flooring it... no luck.

Then I floor'd it, quickly releasing the peddle once it caught, and what do you know... it started!

So.. that doesn't explain why it is getting too much gas when cold, but it at least gives me a work around until it gets a little warmer out!

Thanks!!!! What a great tip!
-P

 

[Jason]

It could possibly be that your ignition module is on its way out and delivering a weak spark that is easily overwhelmed by the fuel flow.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

im willing to bet there isnt anything at all wrong with the truck. you have to remember that we're talking about 1994 technology here. EEC-IV is slooow. its been my experience that many vehicles controlled with this form of engine management do not fire back up immediatly after a stall. my guess is the fact that the vehicle is running rich enough already due to being in open loop, combined with the PCM not shutting the injectors off as soon as the engine stalls is just enough to flood the motor. my suggestion is that now you know how to get the truck to fire back up, keep practicing with that clutch untill you dont stall on hills anymore

 

[cubg1]

To pjwhitney84 - I have this problem too

My 92 4.0L does this too, but I do think there is something wrong with the engine. I would check your Idle Air Control valve and clean your intake around the butterfly valve. I showed my problem to a Ford mechanic, and as strange as it sounds, he said that sometimes excessive buildup around the butterfly valve will cause this. I haven't had the chance to clean mine yet, but am planning on trying it this weekend (after I replace my drivers side spring seat - check yours for rust-out if you haven't already). I have had several V6 Rangers of this vintage, and my current is the only one to have this problem. For me, I only notice the problem in the winter. When the engine is cold and as I take off from a stop sign, it likes to do this. Even if the engine is rev'ed up to around 2500 rpm as I release the clutch and the engine RPM falls a little, it will suddenly fully loose power, then violently regain, but not before dying sometimes. Another way to notice this problem is to have the clutch in and hit the pedal to rev the engine. Rather then rev'ing immediately, mine stutters and then revs up. No matter where the engine is in the RPM range, it will do this - for example, if I have the engine held at 3000 RPM, blip the gas, it will momentarily loose power, then regain and rev higher. In any scenario, once the engine is warmed up, the problem is gone.

For taking off from a stop sign or light, I have found the way to overcome this is more rev and slip the clutch a little more, but I know this will wear my clutch sooner and I don't like doing it. Just like yours, after dying it won't start unless I fully depress the pedal for 2-3 seconds. It is very annoying when you are wanting to drive, and the truck is trying to die. I would blame it on my driving, but I have been driving a stick for over fifteen years, in some vehicles with torqueless four cylinders and haven't had a problem. Keep digging to find the problem!